The best food I had in Mar 2010 was at paladars, which are local restaurants not run by the state. Their license limits them to 12 seats. Generally, it helps to know Spanish or at least have a spanish phrasebook because some of the menus have no English translation.

The best ones I've had:

1) El Gringo Viejo, Vedado. 454 21st ave, between E & F. Great food, but pricey by Cuban standards.

2) Monguitos, Vedado: right across from Habana Libre Hotel - step out of the hotel, cross the street and look for the sign. Can't miss it but it's a little hole in the wall outfit. Great grilled fish - excellent value for the money. But avoid the uruguayan steak - it's more like ham and not good at all.

3) Los Tres Mosquestores, Vedado - along La Rampa between E & F. It's right on La Rampa but there's no sign to indicate it. The entrance is sandwiched between 2 residences and you'll have to ring a buzzer to get in. Good lobster and food.

4) Camellos (next to the Riviera cinema, Vedado, on La Rampa, say between H & I) is not a paladar but offers great value for money. It was recommended to me by another traveller.

5) Marrakas- Calle O @ La Rampa - supposedly good Italian food - they have a good pasta special for CUC 12. I had the alfredo and the tiramisu ... but not impressed.