I am in the planning stages of a trip to Buenos Aires. I have used a number of guides (including ***Pirate's and Moondog's*** - you guys ROCK!) to put this compilation together. I am simply posting "what I currently have put together" - so that other board members could simply cut, paste, and print this out for themselves.

Note: This is traveling information. Also, I sincerely do not want to be plaguerizing anyone's information. Let me know if there's any problems with posting this.

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Argentina

[INSIDER TIPS]
Airport information - Aeropuertos Argentinos (information for both airports) - Tel: +54 (0) 11 5480-6111
-Ezeiza (officially Aeropuerto Ministro Pistarini) is about 35km from the centre and handles most international flights.
A taxi from one of Ezeiza's official stands into the city will cost about $15. Several companies also offer regular mini-bus shuttles for around $5. Avoid taking a taxi or minicab (remise) from the hawkers who will approach you as you arrive (robberies and rip-offs are commonplace, as explained in our taxi tips). Use the official taxi firms at the airport. Alternatively, arrange in advance for a car to pick you up—try Le Coq: +54 (0) 11 4963-9391/2.
The return journey to Ezeiza, if the traffic is good, should take 30-40 minutes from the city centre and cost roughly $20, including road tolls.
-Aeroparque Jorge Newbery is just outside the centre, next to the river in the Palermo district, and handles flights for Uruguay and domestic destinations. The journey to and from this airport is fast—15 minutes—and straightforward, either in a standard black and yellow cab or a radio taxi.
-The international airport, EZE, is a sleek, modern facility located about 35 kilometers from downtown. It is aesthetically appealing and run with an efficiency that is rare in Latin America. The first time I arrived at EZE it took less than 20 minutes for me to collect my bags, clear customs and step into the Remis (private taxi) that would take me to my hotel. On my second trip the total time was 16 minutes.
-As you deplane you will head down a corridor to an escalator descending to immigration. When you arrive at the immigration area, follow the signs to the line for "extranjeros" of Argentina. Have your passport and immigration form ready to show the immigration officer. Note: You should have received a customs declaration & immigration form on your flight. The official will stamp your passport and immigration form and you are set for a three-month stay.
-Next stop baggage claim. You will collect your luggage and proceed to the customs area where you will play customs roulette. The official standing beside a stoplight will push a button and either a red or green light will flash. A green light means you are free to exit into the main lobby and begin your adventure in Argentina. A red light means you will be required to place your luggage on the conveyor to pass through the x-ray machine.
-As you emerge from the customs area you will enter a cordoned off area of the main lobby. You will see a row of booths for ground transportation directly in front of you. To either side masses of people will be visible. Here is a link to an airport site, with maps showing where various banks, ground transportation, shops and restaurants are located. http://www.airportnewsezeiza.com/
-I usually exchange a small amount of money before heading to downtown. There is a bank to the right of the roped off area as you emerge from customs that offers a decent rate of exchange. There is a kiosk in the baggage area that offers a poor rate of exchange.

Transportation to downtown
-There are three ways of getting downtown. You can take a bus, remis (private car) or taxi. Here is a link to a company that offers bus and remis service: http://www.tiendaleon.com.ar/prehome.asp?flash=S
-My own preference is to take a taxi. Taxis cost less than remis, but more than the bus. But the bus will drop you downtown and you will need to switch to a cab. Time is worth more to me than the few pesos I save.
-There are booths inside and outside the terminal where you can prepay for a cab. Always use a booth rather than catching a cab curbside. Too many thieves. I use the booth outside the terminal because it is 5-10 pesos less expensive than the ones inside. I paid 30pesos on my last visit.

Make sure you have a valid passport
-Check your passport. U.S. citizens will need a valid passport to enter Argentina. If you don't have a passport or it will expire within six months, click here: http://travel.state.gov/passport_services.html
-A visa is not necessary. Instead, upon your arrival you will be issued a free tourist card valid for 90 days and renewable for an additional 90 days.
-There are two ways to obtain a 90-day extension. First, you can go to the Direccion de Migraciones (ph. 4317-0200) at Antardida Argentina 1355. Go early and don't plan other activities for the day! An easier option is to take a ferry to Colonia, Uruguay. Spend a pleasant day looking around this colonial city and return the same night. Since you are reentering the country, you will be issued a second free 90 day tourist card. Schedules and fares are available on the Buquebus website: http://www.buquebus.com/argentina/home.htm

Style of Clothes - Argentinos are very fashion conscious. They tend to dress up for business, and to don stylish clothes at other times. While a suit isn't necessary, take along decent clothes for going out to clubs and restaurants. Think khakis, a nice shirt and leather jacket. No leather jacket? Not to worry. There are tons of leather shops in Buenos Aires. Jeans are fine for strolling around in the daytime or for going to a movie, pool hall or pizza parlor.

Adapters - Unlike in the United States, electric current in Argentina is AC 220-380 volts. In addition, outlets in Argentina are shaped differently than in the U.S. Electric plug configurations are usually two round-tipped straight pins or 2-3 flat pins with the top two slightly angled to form a "Y" shape.

Banks and money
-Argentina’s currency, the peso, floated in 2002, after a decade in which it was pegged to the American dollar. In December 2003 the exchange rate had been steady for several weeks at just below 3 pesos to the dollar, and the Central Bank seemed committed to keeping it there. The peso breaks down into centavos. Coins come as follows: one peso coin, 50, 25, 10 and 5 centavos. Notes come as follows: 100, 50, 20 10, 5 and 2 pesos.
-Buenos Aires’s banks are generally open Mon-Fri 9/10am-3/4pm. ATMs are ubiquitous and are signalled by the “Banelco” and “Link” logos. They can be somewhat temperamental with foreign cards and some are only for clients of the bank they are attached to. Look out for the symbol of your credit card company. Take care when withdrawing money, as muggings at ATMs are on the rise.
-There is a shortage of small change in the capital, which can be a problem for visitors. Bus fares are coin-only and most taxi drivers and small shop owners will not accept large bills (ie, anything over $20 and sometimes a lot less for a small purchase). Trying to cash a $100 bill can be a nightmare. Most Argentines develop a habit of breaking large bills whenever they can, even if they could pay with smaller bills, so as to always have change.
-The best bet if you’re stuck with a large bill is to look for a petrol station, supermarket or fast food joint, any of which will usually give you change if you ask nicely (banks will too, but you may have to queue). Also bear in mind if taking money out of a cashpoint machine to request $90 or $190 rather than $100 or $200 - that way you don’t get all your money in hundreds.
-ATMs are plentiful and work most of the time. I use the Citi Bank ATMS in Recoleta, on Callao. Downtown I use the Banco Frances at Cordoba and Florida. Check with your bank about transaction fees.
-Casas de Cambios will exchange dollars to pesos. In Recoleta, I use Metropolis at Quintana 570. Downtown, I prefer ALHEC, Paraguay 641.
-I normally take a back up stash of American Express Traveler's checks, just in case. The American Express office will exhange for either pesos or dollars without commission at its office on Plaza San Martin (Arenales 707).
-Most hotels and businesses take credit cards, but some charge an extra 10%.

Calls to and from Argentina
[From Argentina to the U.S.]
*Phonecards : Available in many kioscos and internet cafes for amounts of 5 or 10 pesos. A 5 peso card allows for 15-20 minutes of call time to the US. A 10 peso card allows 30-45 minutes call time. USA code is 001 (then dial area code and phone number)
-Locutorios: Numerous locations throughout Buenos Aires. About 80centavos per minute. Go in a booth and dial home. Easy.
[To phone Buenos Aires from the United States]
011-54-11-xxxx-xxxx land lines 011-54-9-11-xxxx-xxxx cell numbers
[Inexpensive phone cards] http://www.blackstoneonline.com/callingcards/
-Internet cafes are everywhere in Buenos Aires and throughout the country. Cost in Buenos Aires is about 2pesos per hour. More expensive outside city.

Courier services
-All the major international courier companies are active in Buenos Aires. The Economist’s correspondent has found Federal Express to be the most efficient service locally.
-Federal Express - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4630-0300

Crime and safety
-Porteños are increasingly worried by crime, although Buenos Aires is no worse than most other major cities in this respect and the recommendations are much the same. Dress down when not doing business. Try to avoid looking like a tourist, especially by showing off cameras, flashy watches and the like. Pickpockets and bag snatchers operate on the subte (metro) and especially in bustling areas like the centre and the districts around Retiro, Constitucion and Once train stations.
-Most of the city’s really dangerous areas are on the outskirts and are unlikely to be on a business visitor’s itinerary. But the Boca district, which is much-frequented by tourists, can be a little dodgy and discretion should be exercised, especially late at night.
-Exercise caution when withdrawing money from an ATM; it is unwise to hail a cab immediately afterwards—walk a few blocks first. Choose your taxi carefully (see our taxi tips).
-If the worst should happen and you are assaulted, hand over your valuables. Muggers tend to be armed and nervous, and resisting them dramatically increases your chances of being shot.

American Embassy - Avenida Colombia 4300 - C1425GMN Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 5777-4533, Fax: +54 (0) 11 5777-4240

Health and emergencies - Police: 101 - Fire: 100 - Ambulance: 107
-The tap water in Buenos Aires is perfectly drinkable. The summer months (December-March) can be uncomfortably humid.
Doctors & dentists
-For medical assistance your best bet is to head for one of the hospitals originally set up to cater for the city’s immigrant communities. Both of the following are still highly rated:
-British Hospital (Hospital Británico) - Perdriel 74 – Constitución - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4309-6400
-Hospital Alemán - Avenida Pueyrredón 1640 - Barrio Norte - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4821-1700
-For an English-speaking dentist, try: Dr Carlos Vallve - Avenida Santa Fe 1203 5th floor - Barrio Norte - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4812-4792

Internet cafés
-Internet cafés are ubiquitous. You’ll find locutorios, or call centres, scattered throughout the city—these also offer Internet access. The following cafés are particularly reasonable:
-Web Café - Alto Palermo Shopping - Avenida Santa Fe 3253 – Palermo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4827-8000 - Open: daily, 10am-10pm
-Café Café - Retiro Station, Mitre Line - Open: daily, 7am-9pm approx.
-The refurbishment of the downtown Retiro station has worked wonders on this classic café, which had been abandoned for the five previous years. A coffee or soft drink buys you half an hour's free Internet access, under the marble pillars and beautifully-restored stained glass.

Public transport
-Buses in Buenos Aires are cheap and go just about everywhere. But they are also slow and their routes can be confusing. To give it a go, pick up a route planner from a newsstand. These have good maps, a complete list of routes and a system identifying the buses that pass through each area. Filcar and Lumi publish such guides.
-The metro system, known locally as the “subte”, is as cheap as the bus but easier to use, and often faster than a taxi. Tickets can be bought for either a single journey or for several; multi-trip tickets offer no price advantage, but they save time queuing at the ticket office. There are five subte lines, and the government plans to expand them and to add a sixth. The system, Latin America's oldest, is slowly being overhauled, with station refurbishments and new rolling stock. The trains can get crowded during rush hour, particularly on Line D. Look out for the free maps, available (sometimes) from ticket offices, which are some of the best single-sheet city maps around.

-The public transportation system in Buenos Aires is excellent: There's a modern subway system. Collectivos or busses run almost everywhere. Trains will take you to the suburbs. And you can take a ferry across the Rio Del Plate to Uruguay.
-The easiest way to get from point A to point B is via taxi. Take a radio cab, such as Taxi Pemium. Other good cab companies are Madero Norte, Mi Taxi, and Taxi Blue.
-A Subway token costs 70centavos. Most bus rides are 80centavos. A taxi ride within a barrio costs about 3pesos, 5-10 if you want to go from one barrio to another.
-A suggestion or two. If you don't speak Spanish, write down the street address where you want to go and hand it to the cab driver. Even if you speak Spanish, you may want to write down the address. The accent here can cause misunderstandings. Ave. Callao is a good example; it is pronounced Kaw-sha-OH.
-Another hint: When you first arrive, go to a newsstand (they are everywhere) where for 2pesos you can buy a Guia T de Bolsillo. The Guia has detailed maps of Buenos Aires, as well as a list of busses that serve the various areas. I find it useful to consult the Guia even when I am taking a cab, so I will know the approximate route/distance. So if a taxi driver tries to drive a long way out of the way, I can ask what's up?

-Here are some links:
http://www.metrovias.com.ar/spa/home.asp Subway
http://www.tms.com.ar/ Trains.
http://www.loscolectivos.com.ar/ Busses
http://www.tbanet.com.ar/ Trains
http://www.taxipremium.com/ a good taxi company
http://www.buquebus.com/argentina/home.htm Ferry

Taxis
-Radio Taxi Premium - Tel: +54 (0) 11 5238-0000, 4374-6666 - Prices are reasonable, but driving can be hair-raising and manners non-existent. Few drivers will bother to ask whether you mind if they smoke, and many have a very short fuse. Tipping is not the norm, though you may round up the fare if you are feeling particularly generous.
-I don't walk alone at night. In fact, I usually take a taxi. Fares are very inexpensive. 1.24 pesos to start. Most rides are less than 5 pesos. I use only Radio Taxis. Radio taxis are easy to recognize. They have "Radio Taxi" printed on the sides and a light on top that says, you guessed it, "Radio Taxi." When I exchange money I don't grab a cab in front of the cambio or bank. Instead, I walk a block or two, then catch a taxi.
-For longer journeys, particularly to and from the airport, a remise (minicab) is the norm. These charge a flat fare, which is arranged in advance. Note that the fare you pay always covers a return journey, so it is often cheaper to pay a remise to wait than to order another cab. There are several reliable remise companies. Le Coq is one of the largest: Remises Le Coq - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4963-9391/2
-Tips when hailing - If you hail a cab in the street, these tips will help:
• Hail a moving cab, rather than taking one that is parked waiting for a fare. Avoid taking a taxi outside a bank or in the first few blocks of Avenida Corrientes.
• Choose your taxi carefully. It's safer to flag down a radio cab if possible. The front passenger seat should be pushed forward, making it difficult for an assailant to get in.
• Travel with as little cash and as few credit or cashpoint cards as possible.
• Lock the other passenger doors after boarding the cab.
• If the driver tells you his cab has developed mechanical problems and asks you to get in the taxi behind, decline and get out – fast!
• It helps if you look like you know where you are going, and suggest a route to your destination (a bit of research won't hurt).
• Check your change. Even the friendliest driver is unlikely to have change of anything over $20. But many will also either “accidentally” short-change you or feign a lack of coins in order to avoid giving you all your change. As well as regular short-changing, cabbies have been known to pass false coins and bills. Check your change carefully before getting out of the cab.

Tipping - In restaurants and bars, you should tip around 10% of the bill, although many Argentines leave less and the most brazen leave nothing at all. In taxis, tipping is not the norm; indeed, the driver will often round the fare down if it is a matter of a few cents. Ushers in cinemas expect around 50 centavos; delivery boys usually a peso.

Don't forget
• Buenos Aires shuts down in January, when key decision-makers flee to their resorts in Punta del Este, Uruguay (the city's answer to the Hamptons).
• Polo events dominate November. The Argentine Open takes place at the Palermo stadium, and champagne parties abound.
• Avoid hailing a cab in the street. It’s far safer to telephone a radio taxi in advance.
• The city suffers from a shortage of small change. When withdrawing money from a cashpoint machine, request $90 or $190 rather than $100 or $200—that way you don’t get all your money in hundreds.
• Porteños (residents of Buenos Aires) may be the world’s most psychoanalysed city-dwellers; some may find that it is almost more socially acceptable to be in therapy than not.



Restaurants
-With simple, fresh ingredients readily available, most Argentine chefs have little reason to experiment with fancy herbs and recipes. Traditional cuisine has rarely stretched beyond slabs of beef served at the local parilla (grill) or the pizza and pasta imported by Italian immigrants. But things are changing. Exotic ingredients are creeping in, along with new restaurants and a growing number of foreign imports - witness the city's hugely popular sushi bars.
-Restaurants abound, since Argentines have traditionally spent more money dining out than other Latin Americans. Foreigners will find plenty of choice, and since devaluation prices in dollars are so low that spending more than $40 on dinner for two, wine included, is difficult.
-Puerto Madero, a renovated docklands area near the city centre, is a haven for business lunchers. In the evening, younger diners head for the trendy Las Cañitas or Palermo Viejo districts, while more conservative restaurants are in Recoleta. If you hanker after a Chinese meal, head for Chinatown, centred around the street of Arribeños in the suburb of Belgrano. There you will find a host of mainly Taiwanese restaurants and businesses catering to the Chinese community; the Chinese restaurants scattered throughout the rest of the city are hit-or-miss.
-Wherever you go, book first. And a final word of warning: Argentines eat late. If you arrive much before 10pm, you will probably eat alone.

*[Good Deals (10)]
1.1880 Parrilla. Defensa 1665. San Telmo. (T.4307-2746). Steak and other grilled meats are the specialty here. Historical setting, great food, friendly staff. On my last visit I had a grilled provolone appetizer, ojo de bife (rib eye), a bottle of Cason de Lopez Malbec, café con leche, flan caseo with dulce de leche and whipped cream, and an after dinner drink of limoncella. All for 28 pesos. Also recommended pork ribs (pechito de cerdo) and locro stew.
--Great spot for a steak that is superb and one of the best values in town for the money. Try your steak with a bottle of inexpensive wine (the waiters know what's best....Casona de Lopez Malbec or Cab works)...and a grilled provolone starter and one of the excellent sides, such as creamed spinich or mashed pumpkin squash....or just a simple mixed green salad tossed in oil. (4-04)
--A terrific, old-fashioned BsAs parrilla, a meal with wine and several courses of half-orders of dishes came to a grand total of 28 pesos. I was astonished at how inexpensive it was for a restaurant where almost everything is home made, including the pasta and the limoncello. (4-03)
2. Bella Italia Bare. Republica Arabe Siria 3330. Palermo. (T.4807-1591). Italian bar and grill, rumored to be one of Robert Duvall's favorite restaurants in Buenos Aires. Grilled portobello mushroom appetizer, grilled trout served with steamed veggies, tiramasu, and a shared bottle of Nieto Senetiner cab for 30 pesos. Pastas are also outstanding. The more upscale Bella Italia Restaurant is just down the street at Republica Arabe de Siria 3285. (T.4699-4253). Reservations suggested. About 40 pesos per person.
3. Tancat. Paraguay 645. El Centro.(T.4312-6106) Spanish. Great place for lunch. Variety and quality of tapas is outstanding, but I like the seafood here. The baby octupus and black rice is delicious, as well as the grilled fish of the day. About 30-40 pesos for a full meal with wine.
4. Nucha. Parana 1343, overlooking Plaza Vincente Lopez. Recoleta (T.4813-9507). Since Argentinos eat late, they sometimes have a snack in the afternoon. The Argentine merienda is not unlike afternoon tea in England, with an emphasis on sweets. This is the perfect spot for small pastries or a brownie and cortado (small coffee with milk). Always crowded.
5. Empire Bar. Tres Sargentos 427. El Centro, just off Reconquista.(T.4312-5706). Trendy Thai bar and restaurant. The 12 peso lunch special comes with either an appetizer or dessert, main course and drink. It is hard to choose between dessert or appetizer! The kiwi and lemon ice cream are outstanding, but so are the spring rolls.
6. Asociacion Japonesa. Avda. Independencia 732. San Telmo. (T.4300-1182). Sushi, tempura and other typical Japanese dishes. No frills setting inside the Japanese Association building. About 30 pesos, including a warm sake or two.
7. Dominga. Honduras 5618. Palermo Hollywood. (T. 4771-4443). Trendy restaurant in a trendy area. Salmon Teryaki and shrimp with black pasta are highly recommended. Save room for the lemon cheesecake with fresh raspberries. 40-50 pesos per person, including wine.
8. La Bisteca. Justo Alicia Moreau 1880. Puerto Madero (T. 4514-4999). Tenedor Libre (all-you-can-eat). Traditional food. Buffet, tables heaping with food. Meats and pastas cooked to order. About 30 pesos, with wine.
9. Pompeii. Cabildo 1985. Belgrano. (T.4781-6788). A great spot for a quick lunch. Try the milanesa de pollo (chicken) for 8 pesos or the sopa de calabaza for 6 pesos.
10. Hooters. Vincente Lopez 2050. Village Recoleta, third level. (T45143434). Tired of things Argentine? Want a taste of good old American food? This is the place….just like home…burgers, fries, wings, cold beer. 10-15 pesos for a cold beer, burger and fries.
11. Dashi, Fitz Roy 1613, Palermo Hollywood, tel. 4776-3500. An excellent Japanese restaurant with excellent sushi and other dishes. I've eaten here on each of my most recent trips and found it outstanding. Per person with wine ~ 60 pesos. (4-03)
12. Patagonia, in the food court of the Galeria Pacifico mall, on Florida Street in downtown. It has excellent luncheon plates, quiches, and local micro-brewed beers, in a decor reminiscent of southern Argentina.
13. Dominga - Palermo Hollywood - Honduras 5618 - 4771-4443
A trendy spot right now. I really liked it and the restaurant was full all night. We were there several hours. It's not expensive either. Most tables had 2-4 people but we had about 4 tables pushed together and at least 16 people. The menu isn't the typical menu in BA. Kind of ecclectic menu that ranged from Rib Eye with potatoes to Sushi. Prices were in the ar$15-20 range for entrees, and numerous wines (cabs) were ar$20-40. (6-03)
-A word or two about eating out in Buenos Aires. Think late. If you eat at 9 or 10 in the evening you will find the restaurants crowded with Argentinos. Much earlier and you will probably be eating by yourself.
-A tip of 10% is the norm in Buenos Aires.
-This list does not begin to scratch the surface of the available restaurants and cuisine available in Buenos Aires. Here are a couple of web sites that will let you search for restaurants by type of food or barrio/location.
http://www.restaurant.com.ar/ http://www.xsalir.com/secciones/tapa/?catit=638
-Here are a couple of web sites for pizza chains that deliver. I especially like Los Inmortales.
http://www.losinmortales.com/eindex.htm http://www.romario.com.ar (4511-4444)

**[Rough Guides]
-Buenos Aires is arguably Latin America's gastronomic capital. As well as the excellent and ubiquitous pizza and pasta restaurants common to the country as a whole, the capital offers an ever increasing number of cosmopolitan cuisines, ranging from Turkish through Basque to Japanese. The city's crowning glory, however, for meat eaters at least, are its parrillas. At the top end of the range, there are restaurants offering the country's choicest beef cooked on an asador criollo, that is staked around an open fire. There are plenty of humbler places, too, where you can enjoy a succulent parrillada in a lively atmosphere. There are excellent restaurants throughout the city but, with a few exceptions, the centre and the south are best for the city's most traditional restaurants whilst the north is the place to head for if you're looking for more innovative or exotic cooking. Puerto Madero, the recently renovated port area, is knee-deep in big, glitzy themed restaurants, though – a couple of decent places notwithstanding – these are hardly the capital's most exciting eating options. You'll find a far more original crop of restaurants around the hugely popular and trendy Las Cañitas area in Palermo (subte station Ministro Carranza or buses #29 and #60 bajo) and, increasingly, in Palermo Viejo, where restaurants are given added charm by being located in elegant late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century constructions.
-Though most restaurants open in the evening at around 8pm, it's worth bearing in mind that most Porteños don't go out to eat much before 10pm, so unless you want a restaurant to yourself, you should probably do the same. Most restaurant kitchens close around midnight during the week, though at weekends many keep serving till the small hours. There are also plenty of confiterías and pizzerias that open all night, so you shouldn't have trouble satisfying your hunger at any time.

*[Cafés, confiterías and snacks]
-Abuela Pan, Bolívar 707, San Telmo. Homely vegetarian café and wholefood store offering a daily two-course menu for $6 with options such as wholemeal pasta, aubergine omelette and vegetarian locro. Open Mon–Fri 8am–6pm.
-La Americana, Callao 83–99, centre. A Callao landmark, serving up juicy empanadas to be consumed standing up at metal counters.
-La Biela, Quintana 598, Recoleta. Institutional confitería famed for its lomitos and tip-top coffee, served in the elegant bistro interior or, with a hefty surcharge, in the shade of a gigantic gum-tree on the terraces.
-Le Carafon, Callao 1143, Recoleta. Wine bar with an extensive list of Argentine wines married with classic French bistro dishes such as coq au vin, in the plush salon of a tastefully converted town house.
-La Cocina, Local 61–62, Galería Boston, Florida 142. This simple Catamarcan eaterie (take out or eat at the tables outside) is regarded as having some of the finest empanadas in the city, with juicy, home-made fillings (vegetarian options available) and delicious pastry. They also do a great and unusually light locro.
-La Conzuelo, Báez 207, Las Cañitas. Trendy tapas bar with a good wine list, if a little overpriced, all in an ultramodern setting, with a VIP salon with huge armchairs upstairs.
-Del Viejo Hotel, Balcarce 1053, San Telmo (tel 011/4362-0086). Popular lunchtime café for good inexpensive food served in this restored former hotel which now houses artists' workshops.
-Freddo, Galerías Pacífico, Av. Córdoba and Florida. Buenos Aires' best ice-cream chain provides a compelling reason to descend to the basement of this shopping centre on a hot day – dulce de leche fans will be in heaven and the unusual pomelo (grapefruit) flavour is superb. Many other branches throughout the city.
-La Giralda, Corrientes and Uruguay, Centre. Brightly lit and austerely decorated Corrientes café, famous for its chocolate con churros. A perennial hangout for students and intellectuals and a good place to observe the Porteño passion for conversation.
-La Ideal, Suipacha 384, (011/4553-2466). Not quite as famous as the Tortoni, but this confitería is just as beautiful and has a great tango salon upstairs.
-Open Plaza, Av. Libertador 1800, Recoleta. Eclectic confitería, and a great place for brunch or afternoon tea. It has a fast-food section, an antique-silver store, and an elegant salon with newspapers.
-La Puerto Rico, Alsina 422, Monserrat. One of the city's classic confiterías. Simple, elegant and timeless.
-La Querencia, Esmeralda 1392 at Av. Libertador. A small restaurant specializing in empanadas tucumanas, which are excellent, and regional dishes such as locro and tamales. A good spot for a snack if you have an hour or two to kill in the vicinity of Retiro.
-Sabores da Bahía, Esmeralda 965, Retiro. Tucked away at the back of the Fundación Centro de Estudos Brasileiros, this snack-bar-cum-café is one of the few spots in Argentina where you can get Brazilian snacks such as coxinhas, delicious fried dough balls filled with chicken, or the energy-giving drink guaraná. Feijoada, a rich Brazilian stew of beans and pork, is served on Friday. Mon–Fri 10am–8pm.

*[The North]
-Afrodita, Báez 121, Palermo (tel 011/4772-6527). This newly opened restaurant in the phenomenally successful Las Cañitas area offers imaginative pasta dishes such as ravioles de calabaza (pumpkin ravioli) at moderate prices in a stylish atmosphere. Evenings only.
-Almacén Cabrera, Cabrera 4399, Palermo (tel 011/4832-4670); buses #140, #142 from Córdoba. An attractive restaurant – the building was a traditional almacén – serving above average pasta, chicken and parrillada at below average prices. Good service and attention to detail. Evenings only, plus Sun lunch.
-Armenia, Armenia 1366 (tel 011/4775-7494), Palermo Viejo. Delicious and authentic Armenian food, including smoked ham, boreks, kepe and falafel, served in simple surroundings.
-Azafrán, Honduras 5143 (tel 011/4832-6487), Palermo Viejo. Spanish dishes such as paella, plus a wide selection of tapas including chorizo and broad beans on Sundays only. Closed Mon.
-Burmana, Av. del Libertador 2701, Olivos (tel 011/4799-5347). Exotic surroundings, plus oriental music and belly dances. The Armenian and Middle Eastern specialities, such as tarama, lamb kebabs and kataif, are served with panache.
-La Casa Polaca, J.L. Borges 2076, Palermo Viejo (tel 011/4774-7621). The infectious good humour of the owner, who wanders from table to table, goes a long way to turning eating at La Casa Polaca into a memorable experience. There's piano music too and plenty of hearty Eastern European food.
-La Cátedra, Cerviño 4699, Palermo (tel 011/4777-4601). Classic Argentine restaurant in a beautiful neocolonial house, with some unusual twists – like fruit sauces – to a standard menu.
-Club del Vino, Cabrera 4737, Palermo (tel 011/4833-0048); buses #140 and #142. With a modern Argentinian menu including duck, lamb and seafood, this small and elegant restaurant shares the space with a music venue (tango and jazz) and a wine bar. Evenings only. Closed Sun.
-Club Sírio, Ayacucho 1496, Recoleta (tel 011/4806-5764). Every Argentine city has its Syrian club-restaurant but this palatial place is one of the best. Excellent mezze-style buffet. Belly-dancing Thurs–Sat. Closed all Sun.
-Colbeh Melahat, Av. del Libertador 13041, San Isidro (tel 011/4793-3955). Let the owners advise you what to have at Argentina's only Persian restaurant, but the lamb cooked in pomegranate juice is unforgettable. Closed Sun and lunchtime.
-El Cook & Bardelli, French 2316, Recoleta. Traditional, extremely friendly Italian trattoria, serving traditional, home-made food, with an extensive drinks and wine list. Closed Sun lunch & Mon.
-Errázuriz, Museo de Arte Decorativo, Libertador 1902, Palermo (tel 011/4806-8639). Refined but unpretentious French-style cuisine in the elegant surroundings of the mansion's coach-house. Pleasant garden terrace, weather permitting. Lunch and dinner daily; afternoon teas on Sun.
-La Esquina de las Flores, Avenida Córdoba 1587 (tel 011/4813-3630). Reliable vegetarian and macrobiotic restaurant serving up a variety of hot (including a good carbonada de vegetales, a vegetarian version of the popular criollo stew) and cold dishes. Closed Sat evening and all day Sunday.
-La Factoria, Arribeños 2393, Belgrano. A converted warehouse is the atmospheric setting for this Uruguayan-run place, with gaucho waiters.
-Filo, San Martín 975, Retiro (tel 011/4311-0312). As much a place to be seen as to eat; the food in this trendy restaurant is nevertheless to be reckoned with. Imaginative pizza, pasta and salads and Italy meets Argentina in dishes such as Venetian mussel soup with Patagonian clams.
-La Fonda del Polo, Báez 301, Las Cañitas (tel 011/4772-8946). Traditional parrilla in thematic decor, popular with polo players and their supporters from the Campo de Polo.
-French, French and Azcuénaga, Recoleta (tel 011/4806-9331). Warmly decorated neighbourhood bar-cum-restaurant, serving excellent pasta, veal dishes and a wonderful panna cotta.
-Freud & Fahler, Gurruchaga 1750, Palermo Viejo (tel 011/4833-2153). The serrano hams hanging from the ceiling and bottles of Rioja lined up on the shelves are served at this atmospheric tapas bar, which also does a mean paella.
-Green Bamboo, Costa Rica 5802, Palermo Viejo (tel 011/4775-7050). Delicious pork, fish and seafood, perfumed with ginger, lemongrass, chilli and fish sauce, prepared by the cooks from the Vietnamese embassy, so it's genuine.
-La Grispella, Virrey Loreto 3093, Colegiales (tel 011/4553-7211). Traditional but not stuffy Italian trattoria serving excellent pasta and other dishes, rounded off with an unbeatable tiramisu.
-Hsiang Ting Tang, Arribeños 2245 Palermo, (tel 011/4786-0371). An upmarket place serving a wide range of Taiwanese dishes, in soothing surroundings. Try the pork sautéed in ginger.
-Katmandu, Av. Córdoba 3547, Palermo (tel 011/4963-1122). You can watch your naan being baked and your rogan josh being simmered in the kitchen of this top-rate restaurant, where you dine among Indian antiques. By the way, "Indian hot" really does mean vindaloo-style.
-Lotus, Ortega y Gasset 1782, Belgrano (tel 011/4771-4449). Undoubtedly the most authentic Thai food in town, served with a smile in temple-like decor complete with gilded buddhas. Green curries are fabulous.
-Morelia, Báez 260, Las Cañitas (tel 011/4772-0329). Busy, noisy but smart place, with young fashion-victim clientele but excellent thin-crust pizzas, the speciality being yummy pizza a la parrilla.
-ña Serapia, Las Heras 3357, Palermo; buses #10, #37. An unexpectedly traditional and rustic restaurant in the heart of upmarket Palermo, ña Serapia styles itself as a pulpería and bar and serves delicious regional dishes including locro and tamales at very reasonable prices.
-Las Nazarenas, Reconquista 1132 (tel 011/4312-5559). Superb parrilla cooked gaucho-style on the asador criollo, where meat is staked around an open barbecue. Moderate to expensive.
-La Placita, Serrano 1636, Palermo Viejo. Filling home cooking at this traditional cantina, a counterpoint to the trendy bars across the Plaza Serrano, and marred only by the glaring fluorescent-strip lighting.
-Piola, Libertad 1078, Barrio Norte. (tel 011/4812-0690; www.piola.it). Trendy, popular and lively Italian restaurant serving excellent pizza. Happy hour Mon–Fri 6.30–9.30pm, live jazz on Wed. Reservations advisable. Closed Sat & Sun lunchtime.
-El Primo, Báez 302, Palermo (tel 011/4775-0150). One of the few relative bargains to be had in swanky Las Cañitas. Popular parrilla offering traditional Porteño dishes with a bit of flair. You'll probably have to queue, but at least they serve you a glass of wine while you're waiting.
-Rave, Gorriti 5092, Palermo. Interesting food combinations and endless list of cocktails served in an unusual decor dominated by giant pink tulips and appreciated by a trendy, gay-dominated clientele. Closed Mon lunch.
-San Babila, Roberto M. Ortiz 1815, Recoleta (tel 011/4801-9444). Reliable, traditional Italian trattoria, with no surprises on the menu but delicious food, especially the pasta and above all the carpaccio.
-El Sanjuanino, Posadas 1515, Recoleta (tel 011/4805-2683). Empanadas, locro, humitas and barbecued chicken, plus delicious goat's cheese with honey for dessert. No credit cards. Closed Mon.
-Sarkis, Thames 1101, Villa Crespo; buses #140 and #142; tel 011/4772-4911). Excellent tabbouleh, keppe crudo (raw meat with onion – much better than it sounds), falafel etc at this popular restaurant serving a fusion of Armenian, Arab and Turkish cuisine. Close to one of Buenos Aires' nicest barrios, Palermo Viejo.
-Soul Café, Báez 246, Palermo (tel 011/4778-3115). Describing itself as a "boogie restaurant", the food's probably not the point for much of the clientele of this pioneering Las Cañitas venue. Dishes are of the punning variety with "Pumpkin Soulrrentinos" on the menu for $12. It's not a bad place to have a cocktail though, all in all, the place is a bit too artful really to have "soul". Evenings only. Closed Mon.
-Todos Contentos, Arribeños 2177, Belgrano; buses #29, #60, #64 or train from Retiro. One of the best places to eat in Belgrano's Chinatown; a friendly Chinese/Taiwanese with a good selection of very filling noodle soups for around $6. Closed Mon lunch.
-Xalapa, Gurruchaga and El Salvador, Palermo Viejo (tel 011/4833-6102). The owners lived in Oaxaca for a while, and it shows through in the cooking, the most authentic Mexican fare in the city. Bring a fire-extinguisher, especially for the stuffed chillies. No credit cards. Evenings only. Closed all Sun.
-Ying Yang, Paraguay 858, Retiro (tel 011/4311-7798). Pioneering healthfood restaurant with a variety of inexpensive, wholesome – if slightly tired – vegetarian (and some fish) dishes. Closed Sun.

*[The Centre]
-Arturito, Corrientes 1124 (tel 011/4382-0227). An old-fashioned oasis reigned over by courteous white-jacketed waiters, Arturito is a Corrientes landmark, and its bife de chorizo con papas (rump steak and chips) is an unquestionably good deal at just $5.
-Bice, Av. Alicia M. de Justo 192 (tel 011/4315-6216). Style sometimes triumphs over content in Puerto Madero, but the excellent pasta and gnocchi at this highly regarded, if expensive, Italian restaurant will not disappoint.
-Cervantes, Perón 1883. An old stand-by, and, with portions big enough for two, it's a great deal. Try the peceto al horno con papas (roast meat with potatoes). They also do huge salads.
-Chiquilín, Sarmiento 1599 (tel 011/4373-5163). A classic Porteño restaurant serving traditional dishes at moderate prices such as pollo al verdeo (chicken with spring onions) in a friendly and stylish atmosphere.
-Las Cuartetas, Corrientes 838. A pared down pizza and empanada joint where you can grab a slice of pizza at the counter or while away a few hours after the cinema over a cold Quilmes.
-El Globo, Hipólito Yrigoyen 1199 (tel 011/4381-3926). Long-established, moderately priced, Spanish restaurant with a gorgeously old-fashioned interior, offering classic dishes such as camarones al ajillo (prawns with garlic) which are perfectly acceptable if rather lacking in Mediterranean flair.
-Güerrín, Corrientes 1368. If you want a traditional Porteño pizza experience look no further than this Corrientes institution. The traditional order is a portion of muzzarella and fainá eaten at the counter and accompanied by a glass of sweet moscato. Some Porteños hold that the pizzas served in the proper dining area are a notch above the counter versions; however, all are inexpensive.
-Parrilla Peña, Rodríguez Peña 682 (tel 011/4371-5643). Excellent parrilla at a reasonable price in a bustling atmosphere. Avoid the downstairs tables if you want to prevent your clothes reeking of grilled meat.
-Patio San Ramón, Reconquista 269. Generous, well-cooked and inexpensive food with daily specials such as pollo al horno con puré de batata (roast chicken with sweet potato puree). The real attraction, however, is the stunning location in the patio of an old convent where, among palm trees and birdsong, you might even forget that you're at the heart of Buenos Aires' financial district. Lunchtimes only.
-Pippo, Montevideo 341 (tel 011/4374-0762). Despite its fairly indifferent pasta and parrillada, Pippo has established itself as a Buenos Aires institution: it's worth paying this inexpensive, glaringly lit restaurant a visit just to catch a glimpse of Porteño dining in all its noisy, gesticulating glory. The thick vermicelli mixto, with bolognese sauce and pesto, is a good deal.
-The London Grill and Oyster Bar, Reconquista 455 (tel 011/4311-2223). A real slice of old Anglo-Buenos Aires, serving up traditional English dishes such as lamb with mint sauce in an elegant if rather stuffy atmosphere. Closed weekends.
-Tomo 1, Carlos Pellegrini 525, in Hotel Panamericano (011/4326-6695). Considered by many to be Bs As' best haute cuisine restaurant; elegant but refreshingly unpretentious place where all the emphasis is on the exquisitely cooked food. There are lunchtime and evening set menus for around $50, offering dishes such as a terrine of zucchini with almonds and an à la carte menu, with a superb magrets of duck accompanied by pears and rosemary

*[The South]
-Almacén y Bar, Cochabamba 1701, Constitución; subte station Entre Ríos or buses #6, #12 and #37. Upmarket picadas comprising Argentinian and imported cheeses, cured ham and shellfish, plus an excellent wine list. Closed Sat evening and all day Sun.
-Basque Français, Moreno 1370, Montserrat (tel 011/4304-4841). For over a hundred years, this restaurant has been serving up expertly cooked seafood such as squid, octopus and fruits de mer. Expensive but delicious, and more affordable if there are a few of you to share dishes. Closed Sun.
-La Cancha, Brandsen 697, La Boca (tel 011/4362-2975). A classic place to spend a weekend lunchtime – in the shadow of La Bombonera – Boca Juniors' legendary football stadium. Good fresh seafood including excellent pulpo a la gallega (octopus with oil and paprika) to share between two.
-Cantina 3 Amigos, Necochea 1200, La Boca (tel 011/4301-2441). Particularly garishly decorated Boca cantina offering the usual mix of pasta, chicken and seafood at moderate prices accompanied by loud cumbia and merengue. Evenings only (ring first).
-La Casa de Esteban de Luca, Carlos Calvo 383, San Telmo (tel 011/4361-4338). Housed in a famous eighteenth-century building once occupied by the poet and journalist Esteban de Luca, this popular San Telmo restaurant serves up typical Porteño dishes with an imaginative twist.
-El Desnivel, Defensa 855, San Telmo. This popular, no-frills parrilla offers good food at rock- bottom prices. Closed Mon.
-La Gran Taberna, Combate de los Pozos 95, Monserrat (tel 011/4951-7586). A popular, bustling and down-to-earth restaurant just a block from Congreso. The vast menu offers a mixture of Spanish dishes, including a good selection of seafood, and Porteño classics as well as a sprinkling of more exotic dishes such as ranas a la provenzal (frogs' legs with parsley and garlic). Many of the dishes are large enough to share. Prices are very reasonable, too, and service is friendly, though it can be a bit slow during busy periods.
-Laurak-Bat, Belgrano 1144, Montserrat (tel 011/4381-0682). This moderately priced restaurant within Club Vasco has as its centrepiece an oak tree said to be descended from the "Arbol de Guérnica" planted by God, according to Basque tradition. On a more down-to-earth note, the restaurant offers Basque specialities such as bacalao al pil-pil (salt cod in a garlicky sauce) and serves complimentary sherry and tapas.
-El Obrero, Caffarena 64, La Boca (tel 011/4362-9912). With the Boca Juniors souvenirs on the walls, and tango musicians moving from table to table at weekends, the atmosphere at the hugely popular and moderately priced El Obrero is as much a part of the attraction as the simple home-cooked food. Closed Sun.
-Parrilla 1880, Defensa 1665, San Telmo (tel 011/4305-1746). A classic and extremely good parrilla joint right opposite Parque Lezama. The walls are lined with photos and drawings from the restaurant's famous and mostly bohemian clients and the very friendly owner passes from table to table making sure that everyone is happy. Prices are reasonable too. Daily until about 12.30am.
-Patagonia Sur, Rocha 801, La Boca (tel 011/4303-5917). Very smart place run by the leading Argentine chef, Francis Mallmann. The interesting menu combines French sauces with top-rate lamb, beef and seafood from Patagonia. Closed Sun evening.
-Il Piccolo Vapore, Necochea 1190, La Boca (011/4301-4455). Lively Boca cantina, offering set four-course menu plus unlimited wine and soft drinks at $20–25 per head for small groups or $16 for groups of fifteen+. Cabaret, live music and dancing take centre stage though. Evenings only (ring first).
-El Puentecito, Luján 2101, Barracas (tel 011/4301-1794). This hundred-year-old restaurant in the traditional barrio of Barracas is well worth a trip for the generous puchero (boiled meat and vegetables), parrilla and seafood. Best of all, it's open round the clock.
-Plaza Mayor, Venezuela 1399. The trouble with many Spanish restaurants in Argentina is that they will seem inordinately expensive to anyone used to the cheap and delicious seafood available in Spain itself. Nonetheless, Plaza Mayor is one of the better places, offering excellent merluza (hake) and a pretty decent paella at moderate prices. The restaurant is also famous for its pan dulce (pannetone), for which queues regularly form around Christmas and New Year.
-Rimini, Necochea 1234, La Boca (tel 011/4302-6900). One of the oldest of Necochea's famous cantinas, serving up a menú fijo of the usual chicken and pasta for $15, plus lively music until 4am. Evenings only (ring first).

*[The West]
-El Mirasol, Boedo 136 (tel 011/4864-5890); subte Castro Barros or bus #86. Pretty restaurant serving superior parrillada (including entraña and colita de cuadril, two of the tenderest and tastiest cuts) with a good selection of achuras (offal). Abundant plates of papas a la provenzal (fries with parsley and garlic), though some of the other portions can be a bit on the small side.
-La Piurana, Corrientes 3516 (tel 011/4863-3615). One of a small enclave of Bolivian and Peruvian restaurants near the Abasto shopping centre, La Piurana is a friendly, family-run restaurant offering specialities such as ceviche and chifles (fried plantains) at reasonable prices.
-La Popular, Corner of Lavalle and Mario Bravo, Almagro; bus #26. Decorated in the style of a fonda, the walls and ceilings of this attractive restaurant are strewn with football flags from around the world (there's usually a game showing too). The meat is very good and there's also verduras a las brasas, a delicious and unusual dish of grilled peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, squash and aubergines, for a reasonable $6 or so.
-Tuñin, Rivadavia 3902, Almagro. One of the city's best, most popular pizzerias, serving an unforgettable fugazzeta and other classics, including a great tiramisu.


*[Fine dining]
-Ichi Sou - Venezuela 2145 - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4942-5853, 4943-6442
A rash of sushi bars has sprung up in Buenos Aires in the last few years, but none has yet surpassed two popular old-timers that cater to the wealthier members of the local Japanese community: Ichi Sou and Yuki (three blocks away at Pasco 740). Both are discreetly tucked away in an unprepossessing part of town, but the food at Ichi Sou makes it particularly worth hunting down. The teishoku set options are excellent: try the sashimi and grilled fish combination, accompanied by pickles, miso soup, spinach, mixed vegetables and as much rice and green tea as you want.

*[Best for a splurge]
-Bar Uriarte - Uriarte 1572 - Palermo Viejo - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4834-6004
Despite the name, Bar Uriate is more of a restaurant than watering hole, even if the wines on offer (at least four dozen) outnumber the dishes. The loud, funky music lends a clubby feel to the place, but may not suit everyone. If you can't hear yourself speak, at least you can people-watch or gaze at the open-plan kitchen which overlooks the street (such lay-outs are all the rage in Buenos Aires - witness the equally trendy Central, nearby at Costa Rica 5644). The antipasti are excellent (and generous enough to share between three) while the king prawn, squid and mussel bake is a tasty main course.
-Katrine - Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 138 - Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4315-6222/1
Classy cooking sets this expense-account restaurant far above the masses, thanks to the flair of Katrine Röed, the Norwegian chef at the helm of the kitchen. The Mediterranean menu is always adventurous, never dull; think gravlax (salmon Norwegian style) or duck confit with mashed shallots, apple confit and potato chips. The attractions are not lost on Puerto Madero’s business diners, who flock to the tables overlooking the refurbished docks. Attentive service and hushed music may soften the impact of the bill.
-Pacífico - Honduras 5564 – Palermo - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4776-0205
Like many restaurants in the trendy Palermo Viejo district, this self-styled “bar and brasserie” features an eclectic mix of styles in both cuisine and décor. The mood is relaxed and tables are secluded in little cubicles. But the light should be a few notches lower to evoke romance. As the name implies, the seafood is excellent. Try a hot shrimp carpaccio for starters, accompanied by camembert and asparagus, and follow up with a mixed fish grill.
-Tomo 1 - Carlos Pelligrini 521, Mezzanine level – Centre - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4326-6698
Upstairs in the central Hotel Crowne Plaza Panamericano, Tomo 1 has been a synonym for haute cuisine for three decades. The two chefs, sisters Ada and Eve Concaro, have built a reputation for cooking with wonderfully fresh ingredients and a touch of flair. The menu changes regularly, but usually features classic dishes with an innovative twist. It’s always worth trying the lamb, which is leaner than its European counterpart because of harsh Patagonian grazing conditions. In season, the oyster mushrooms sautéed in olive oil are a wonderfully delicate starter. With food this good there is little need to lure in the punters with flashy gimmicks or special deals; thus the decor is a little unimaginative and the prices high in peso terms—although fairly cheap in dollars. The fixed menu offers good value at around $15, for three courses with wine, mineral water and coffee.
*Hsiang Ting Tang - Taiwanese Cuisine, Arribeños 2245, Belgrano, (Arribeños and Mendoza, a few blocks off Libertador)
This place is the perfect compliment to all the rich and heavy Argentine foods (I can only take so many pounds of beef and empanadas de pollo). One of the best Asian restaurants I've been to. Great selection of appetizers which are all very good (Ravioles al vapor = Steamed Pork Wontons are my favorite), but the highlight is Three Aroma Chicken (Pollo al Norma Aleandro, 18 pesos). Big juicy chunks of boneless chicken in a rich, dark sauce flavored with garlic, basil, and ginger. I promise you will be finishing the sauce with a spoon once the chicken is gone. The other big winner is a steaming hot beef dish (Carne Ting Tang, 15 pesos) which comes out to the table on a sizzling hot plate. The beef slices are so tender and the sauce once again is amazing. And to finish, some rice cakes and a cold sweet tea mixed with a little coffee. It could be the next thing in energy drinks. (4-03)

*[Business lunch]
-Concepto - Bonpland 1670 – Palermo - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4773-0411
Another fashionable addition to the Palermo Viejo scene, Concepto also boasts a delectable menu. Expect a good range of homemade pastas and some interesting variations on the local staple of grilled meat. Service is efficient and the casually modern dining room is pleasant and relaxing. Lunch menu changes daily. Look out for the massive chicken club sandwich: highly recommended, but impossible to eat without making a mess.
-Cosmopolitain - 25 de Mayo 597 – Retiro - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4893-2332
Run by the same chef as the excellent Cristophe (Palermo Viejo), this atmospheric, French-style bistro in the city centre no longer serves breakfast, but still offers a good alternative for lunch or dinner. The menu—dominated by tapas and sandwiches—is simple but quite satisfying; the well-prepared set lunch is a good choice.
*Empire Bar - Tres Sargentos 427 – Retiro - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4312-5706
If you want a wide range of spicy Asian cuisine, you are unfortunately in the wrong city. But don’t despair, for though this Thai hangout would raise no eyebrows in New York or London, it is a positive oasis in chilli-free Buenos Aires. Though divorced from its sister, Lotus Neo Thai, in the Las Cañitas district, it retains the same style and cuisine as before. Try the fixed menus, which change daily and are always a good lunch option. In the evenings, the restaurant caters to a cocktail crowd.
*Tancat - Paraguay 645 – Retiro - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4312-6106/5442
Originally a cramped Catalan tapas bar, the Tancat has since expanded and now thrives by catering to lunching office workers. Such is its popularity that you should book if you want to be assured of a table at lunch. The tapas are as fresh and tasty as ever, but the real attraction here is the varied and well-prepared selection of fish and seafood dishes—a positive rarity in Buenos Aires.


*[Working breakfast or brunch/dinner]
-La Corte - Arévalo 2977 - Las Cañitas - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4775-0999
This New York-style, split-level bar in trendy Las Cañitas offers a limited but interesting menu, which changes every two months. As well as grilled fish and meat, La Corte offers sushi and more exotic offerings, like chicken breast filled with goat cheese and sage, accompanied by pumpkin and corn ragout. La Corte is open for dinner only during the week and for breakfast and lunch from 10am on weekends. Once an area of sugar canes (hence the name), Las Cañitas now bustles with new restaurants.
*Olsen - Gorriti 5870 - Palermo Viejo - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4776-7677
This cool, Scandinavian-themed restaurant offers a decent set lunch as well as an impressive selection of vodkas and aquavits from around the world. The evening fare is nothing special; the restaurant's real draw is the special Sunday brunch, with a mix-and-match menu that allows for odd but effective combinations like smoked salmon with potato pancakes. Accompanied by bagel-style rolls and washed down with a glass of champagne, the brunch is the perfect way to revive yourself after a late Saturday night.
--Scandinavian Restaurant/Bar/Garden where everything is very stylish and the food is definitely gourmet. Was very busy on a weeknight around 11pm (place is very popular) and we almost didn't get a table for two. The theme is vodka, which is kept at about 15 degrees below zero in a built in glass freezer behind the bar. Great salads like Arugula with warm pear and brie. The must-do appetizer is the 3 Vodka/ 3 Smorrebrod. It's three open faced Danish sandwiches (one was ham and brie, another was lox and cream cheese) and three different vodkas to share. My main was an open faced sandwich made of Beef Gravlox, Gruyere cheese, and tomatoes piled about 4 inches high. Delicious. The desserts looked interesting. (4-03)
-Novecento - Báez 199 - Las Cañitas - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4778-1900
One of the safest bets in Las Cañitas, this fashionable and newly-enlarged bistro has a nicely pared-down décor with subdued lighting, which works well for an evening meal (it's also good for lunch). During fine weather, the outdoor tables are recommended. The modern Argentine menu is uncluttered and bilingual. For a special treat, try the Friday night special: Segovian-style baby pork, with stick potatoes and roast peppers. Branches of Novecento can also be found in the Buenos Aires suburb of Martínez and in Córdoba, Argentina’s second city. For those traipsing around a bit further north, there’s even a branch in New York’s SoHo.
-Soul Café - Báez 246 - Las Cañitas - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4778-3115
Soul Café is a fine antidote to a gruelling day of meetings. Billing itself as a “boogie restaurant and sushi bar”, the place thumps with funky music, serves cocktails at the bar, and boasts orange and black 1970s-style furniture that makes for a clubby ambience. The food here is worth a nibble. As well as the sushi, the kitchen rustles up some pretty tasty Italian cooking. At the heart of Las Cañitas restaurant strip, this was one of the first night spots to open in the area, and still buzzes with life in the evenings.
*Comer – (buffet) - on Guido between Ortiz and Ayacucho.
--It's a buffet place, all you can eat. I liked it not only due to low price, but I like to grab a quick coffee when I wake up (noon?), and I like to eat protein in the morning, and I want something really fast! ar$7 weekday lunches, not more than ar$11-13 for dinners anynight. The place is huge, with 2 cold/salad buffets and 1 hot food buffet. The real gems were the made to order / short order counter, where you can get rabbit/chicken/fish/beef/pastas all made to your order, and the parilla in the rear of the place, with all types of meats. And last, they had a dessert buffet, which included 6 different types of ice cream. The service is typical Argentine top-level... and for a buffet? - the waiters are always attending to the food, and they wipe down your plate and glass before they let you use them, typically pouring you more soda/beer before you can reach for the bottle, etc. Drinks cost extra, but for about ar$10-15 including beverage and tip, this place is a nice find. *This place also has lots of different cold cuts and about a dozen different cheeses. Take note that they shut down after 3pm and reopen at 830pm for dinner. (5-03)
*La Madeleine - Av Santa Fe 1726 - 4815-4500 (*open 24 hours)
-Av. Cordoba 1000 - Centro -Tel: 4322-7139/4394-0718; Alicica M. de Justo 102 - Puerto Madero - Tel: 4315-6200/4315-6201
--This was my favorite place to just stop in and get quick a bite to eat. I was usually in and out without a half hour for around 10 to 15 pesos. It was great for grabbing a quick bite. The chocolate mousse here was excellent. (7-03)

*[Beef+]
*La Cabaña las Lilas - Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 516 - Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4313-1336
Many Argentines like nothing better than tucking into a hunk of grilled beef, and those who can afford it head to Las Lilas, one of the city’s most famous parrillas (grill restaurants). Popular with tourists and businessmen alike, the restaurant is decked out in rustic wood and leather, but is a distinctly upmarket take on the national cuisine. It’s in the rejuvinated Puerto Madero docklands area, and prices are thus higher than the more down-at-heel (some would say authentic) neighbourhood parrilla. But if you’re a fan of a fine, juicy cut of steak, you can do no better than draw up a chair here.
--(12-02) 100pesos for 2 including an appetizer, wine, a succulent steak and tip. The restaurants in Puerto Madero are in renovated old brick buildings on the river front. Ask for a table in the back overlooking the river...the shimmer of lights off the water, the exposed brick walls, hardwood floors, starched white table cloths, attentive service.
--(4-03) Basically the nicest Argentine restaurant. Best steak I've ever had. Medallon de Lomo (a pound of filet mignon) is an amazing steak for 27 pesos. All beef is grown on their own Estancia, a variety of fresh baked gourmet breads, and very classy presentation make this place one not to miss.
*Bisteca - Justo Alicia Moreau 1880. Puerto Madero (T. 4514-4999).
--60-100 pesos including tip for 2. This is a very upscale all you can eat restaurant - again, ask for a table overlooking the river. A good place for Sunday brunch. New Age is a bubbly white wine that goes well with the food.
*Rodizo - Alicia Moreau de Justo 838 – Puerto Madero - Phone: 4334-3438 - Hours: Noon to Midnight Monday through Sunday
--Will cost about the same as Bisteca. Here the waiters will bring grilled meats to your table on skewers and offer you samples of everything from pork to steak to chorizo sausage. Excellent desserts and salads are also a part of the pre-set price. Great way to experience grilled meats and enjoy a leisurely meal. Prices: About $30-50 pesos per person. (7-03)
-El Obrero - Agustín Caffarena 64 - La Boca - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4362-9912
At the other end of the scale from Puerto Madero’s Las Lilas is El Obrero (“the worker”), a rough and ready parrilla with few frills but bags of character. Come for the atmosphere and the good (and cheap) grilled beef. You should probably take a taxi though, especially after dark, as the place is on an obscure back street in the down-at-heel Boca district. Despite the spit and sawdust image, El Obrero boasts a distinguished clientele. Look carefully among the football posters and you’ll spot photos of Bono, the lead singer of U2; he was apparently alerted to the place by Wim Wenders, the German film director. Credit cards are not accepted, and the restaurant is closed on Sundays.
-La Cabaña - Rodriguez Pena 1967 - Barrio Norte - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4814-0001
The original La Cabaña served a host of national and international celebrities in the Congreso district from 1936 to 1996, and its closing was widely mourned. New owners have invested some $6m in its reincarnation, with many of the original fittings transferred to this new restaurant in Barrio Norte. Style is rustic chic, with plenty of wood/leather throughout the three floors. Three separate kitchens prepare food, which includes Argentine meats (Patagonian lamb-chops, which have stronger flavor than European variety) along with cozy international standbys, such as South Atlantic shrimp ravioli.
-La Bourgogne - Ayacucho 2027 - (54-11) 4805-3857 – (French) - in Alvear Hotel ranks among the best in BA. It is the most expensive restaurant in BA.
-Filo - San Martin 975 - (54-11) 4311-0312
-Gran Bar Danzon - Libertad 1161 - (54-11) 4811-1108
--Very nice on a Saturday night held reservation for me one hour later. Service very friendly, bar hopping, menu extensive. Again very Soho like, brick walls, lighting, even dinner DJ. Would rate high 8. (4-04)
-Il Matterello - Martin Rodriguez 517 - (54-11) 4307-0529
-Munich Recoleta - Roberto M. Ortiz 1879 - (54-11) 4804-3981



*[Casual]
-Bereber - Armenia 1880 – Palermo - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4833-5662
Pleasantly placed in front of one of Palermo's leafy plazas, Bereber offers an authentic Moroccan experience in the heart of Buenos Aires. Try the various couscous dishes or, even better, any of the tagines, served directly from the oven in their eponymous conical dishes. The roof terrace is a great place to sip some sweet Moroccan tea on a summer evening, though low tables make it less comfortable for dining.
-Morelia - Baez 260 - Las Canitas - Buenos Aires - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4772-0329
Argentine-style pizza is the subject of some controversy: locals love it, while foreigners find it unpalatable. If you want to see what the fuss is about, you could eat a slice standing up at one of the unassuming pizzerias near the centre of town: either El Cuartito (Talcahuano 937) or Banchero (Avenida Corrientes 1300). But if you want something a bit fancier, Morelia in Las Cañitas offers a unique but distinctly Argentine take on the fare: barbecued pizzas. While that might sound odd, the results convince even foreign sceptics. The heat from the charcoal crisps the crust, while the reflected heat ensures succulent toppings. Setting and prices reflect an up-market pizza experience, but the rock music and cold lager make the mood far from formal.


Sightseeing
-Despite Buenos Aires's European airs, it cannot compete with Paris or London for museums and galleries. So if you find tramping through such sights tedious, you've come to the right place. For culture vultures, though, all is not quite lost. The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is a wonderful place to take in everything from Rembrandt to modern film; the Museo de Arte Latinamericano de Buenos Aires hosts one of the best international collections of regional art; and the Centro Cultural Recoleta is a fine example of the city's nascent contemporary arts scene.
-Porteños are proud of their city's cultural life, which continues to thrive despite the economic chaos. Buskers abound, and there has been a boom of theatre “a la gorra”, where admission is free and spectators give what they can afford (or what they think a production is worth) after the show.
-The city is a walker's delight, especially if the wanderings are punctuated with stops at cafés. Many museums and monuments are closed on Mondays.

1. Sip a Café con Leche. Do as the Portenos (locals) do: Venture into a café late in the morning and order a café con leche (coffee with milk) con medialunes (with croissants). Sip the coffee. Nibble the medialunes I prefer mine with manteca (sweetened). Take along a paperback or pick up a newspaper. Turn the pages slowly. This is an experience to be savored, not rushed. There are a myriad of cafes in Buenos Aires. Two of my favorites are the 100year old Café Tortini and Café de la Paix, a Recoleta mainstay (Quintana 595), Café Tortoni: http://www.cafetortoni.com.ar/
2. Unwind at an Opulent Spa. Colmenga Spa is a hangout for high powered executives and politicos. A day here, including the use of spa facilities and a massage will cost you 200pesos for the deluxe treatment. Money well spent. http://www.colmegna.com.ar/colmegna/
3. Get Culture! Buenos Aires boasts some fine museums and a world-renowned opera house, Teatro Colon. If nothing else, take the tour of Teatro Colon. Better yet, take one of the girls to a performance. Tickets are surprisingly affordable, and the pay off can be incredible. Here are links to Teatro Colon and some of the better museums. The Evita museum in Palermo is especially recommended.
-Museums: http://www.malba.org.ar http://www.mnba.org.ar http://www.evitaperon.org/Museum.htm http://www.jardinjapones.com.ar
-Teatro Colon: http://www.teatrocolon.org.ar/
4. Enjoy a night on the town. Buenos Aires features a vibrant nightlife. There's Broadway-style theater along Ave. Corrientes, casinos, bingo parlors, first run movies from throughout the world, all night pool halls, or concerts.
-To find out what's happening in town, check here:
Events and tickets: http://www.ticketek.com.ar/
Guide to happenings: http://www.laguia.clarin.com/pls/laguia/gui_pdi_hp.mostrarhomepage
-Theaters with web sites: http://www.teatrosanmartin.com.ar/ http://www.teatrodelpueblo.org.ar/
-The Casino in Tigre: http://www.trileniumcasino.com.ar/ -Note: There is a riverboat casino in Puerto Madero with no web site.
-A list of night clubs: http://www.batop.8m.com/
-Pool and cold beer: http://www.deep-blue.com.ar
-Current Movies: http://www.pantalla.info/cine/
5. Watch futbol! Soccer borders on an obsession in Argentina. Buenos Aires boasts 4 division one teams, but two stand out: River Plate and La Boca. River is in a wealthy section of Belgrano, while LaBoca is in the lower class barrio of La Boca. Click on the go football site if you don't speak Spanish and want someone to buy your tickets and escort you to and from your hotel.
-Soccer: http://www.argentinesoccer.com/indexen.html http://www.carp.org.ar/ http://www.bocajuniors.com.ar/ http://www.gofootball.com.ar/
6. Explore the Barrios of Bs.As. Buenos Aires is divided into 47 distinct neighborhoods, or barrios, with their own unique characteristics. It is best to explore one neighborhood at a time on foot.
-The fashionable shops, wide avenues, sidewalk cafes and flower vendors in the elegant La Recoleta district are reminiscent of Paris. Historic San Telmo is the heart of tangoland. Nearby Puerto Madero, old cruise ship terminal, has been converted into a warehouse of restaurants, bars, and shops.
-In El Centro explore Plaza San Martin (one of the many parks scattered through out the city), stroll down Calles Florida and Lavalle, a pedestrian mall. Visit Plaza de Mayo, the square where grieving mothers of the desaparecidos (the disappeared) kept vigil during the country’s “Dirty Wars”. Casa Rosada, the Presidential Pink Palace, at the eastern end, is where Eva Peron would greet the masses. Tree lined Palermo offers a multitude of parks and trendy areas with innumerable restaurants. Belgrano is an upscale residential area that offers a glimpse into how Argentinos live. Here are some web sites from the various barrios.
Recoleta http://recoleta.8k.com/ Puerto Madero http://www.puertomadero.com
Bike tours http://www.biketours.com.ar/esp/index.html Palermo http://www.palermohollywood.net/index1.asp
Las Canitas http://www.barriolascanitas.com.ar/rest.htm La Boca http://www.labocatour.com.ar/
San Telmo http://www.revistazonasur.com.ar/ Plaza de Mayo http://www.laplazademayo.com.ar/
Belgrano http://www.mibelgrano.com.ar/
7. Tango is everywhere in Buenos Aires, and such an integral part of the culture that no one should leave Argentina without experiencing a tango show. Tango shows range from street performers found along Calle Florida downtown, in San Telmo's Plaza Dorrego on Sunday, and most evenings in the Village of Recoleta to elaborate dinner shows. I prefer the intimate preformences found in the small bars of La Boca and San Telmo. Here are some tango web sites: http://www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar/ http://www.bar-sur.com.ar/
8. Take a Day Trip. The three most popular one day trips are to an Estancia in the nearby Pampas, Tigre, and to historic Colonia, Uruguay. Here are some tour companies that can help: http://www.travelline.com.ar/ http://www.buenosairestur.com/
http://www.arecoturismo.com.ar/ http://www.lacinacina.com.ar/
9. Study Spanish. Here are some schools that offer Spanish lessons. For a stay of a month or more, the University of Belgrano's intensive language class is recommended. I have also included a link to the Buenos Aires Herald newspaper. Instructors who will tutor you in Spanish are listed in the classifieds. http://www.latinimmersion.com/argentina.htm http://www.ilee.com.ar/
http://www.ub.edu.ar/studiesinargentina/default.htm http://www.buenosairesherald.com
10. Volunteer. Since the economic crisis following devaluation of the peso, poverty rates have skyrocketed. Here is an opportunity to do something worthwhile by helping: http://www.sersolidario.org.ar/ http://www.porloschicos.com/ http://www.redsolidaria.org.ar/


Nightlife and Entertainment - Despite its economic troubles, Buenos Aires remains one of the best cities on the continent for nightlife, whether you want to take in some culture or to party. Note: most clubs don’t get going until well after 1am.

*Theatre and concerts - Most of the city’s largest theatres (and its best bookshops) are found along Avenida Corrientes, the historic thoroughfare that is Buenos Aires’ answer to Broadway. The economic crisis has delayed a much-needed facelift between the avenues Callao and 9 de Julio, including widening the pavements and planting new trees; but there are hopes that work might start this year. For tickets, try Ticketmaster: +54 (0) 11 4321-9700, or Ticketek: +54 (0) 11 5237-7200.
-Teatro San Martín - Avenida Corrientes 1550 – Tribunales - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4371-0111 or (0800) 333-5254
Argentina’s leading state-funded theatre complex offers classic and experimental theatre, arthouse cinema, concerts and free photography exhibitions. Tickets are cheap, and thus much in demand for more popular events.
-Complejo La Plaza - Avenida Corrientes 1660 – Tribunales - Tel: +54 (0) 11 6320-5300
This gallery opens out from one side of Avenida Corrientes, and houses two theatres and several bars and cafés. Mainstream artistic fare includes shows for both adults and kids.
-Andamio 90 - Paraná 660 – Tribunales - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4374-1484
Offering less commercial works, Andamio 90 has seen many of Argentina’s finest actors cross its stage, under the guidance of Alejandra Boero, one of the country’s most famous drama teachers.
-Teatro Maipo - Esmeralda 443-9 – Centre - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4322-4882
Buenos Aires has a long tradition of teatro de revista—fast-paced, lightweight entertainment, and Teatro Maipo is the best place to catch a performance. You will need a good understanding of Spanish and Argentine celebrities to get most of the gags, although the vedettes—scantily-clad dancing girls—are one staple of the genre that needs no local knowledge to appreciate.
-Teatro Colón - Libertad 621 – Centre - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4378-7100
One of the world’s great opera houses, the Colón is finally getting a long-overdue face lift. It hosts ten full productions a year and is closed in January and February. The theatre’s website posts upcoming performances.

*Tango - “The tango is our national anthem,” said Osvaldo Bayer, an Argentine historian and sometime anarchist. Today that anthem is alive and well in the city that created it. Visitors can take their pick from the touristy dinner shows offered by Bar Sur or El Viejo Almacén, to the more authentic milongas (dance salons), where you can try a few steps if you dare. Look out for the Buenos Aires International Tango Festival, the world’s largest, around the second half of February. Information on the city’s tango scene is covered in two free publications; Buenos Aires Tango Comprehensive and El Tangauta. Both are available at tourist offices and hotels. Or consult the Academia Nacional de Tango, Avenida de Mayo 833, first floor. +54 (0) 11 4345-6967/8.
-Bar El Chino - Beazley 3566 - Nueva Pompeya - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4911-0215 - Open: Fri & Sat
Those who prefer the melodramatic rhythms of the tango to the leg-twisting dance itself should head to El Chino, where the unamplified music is strictly for ears only. Way off the beaten track—in a rather rough area of town—this run-down bar exudes tango from every pore, although it has lost some of its authenticity since tourists woke up to it. El Chino was even the subject of a well-received eponymous film, which features footage of Jorge Eduardo “Chino” Garcés, the bar's venerable owner, shot shortly before his death in 2001. The music starts well after midnight, but you will need to arrive by 11pm at the latest to get a table (it is also advisable to book). Customers are expected to eat and drink while they wait and the prices do not reflect the rudimentary nature of the grilled meat on offer.
-Bar Sur - Estados Unidos 299 - San Telmo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4362-6086, 4307-2874 - Open: Mon-Sat
This small, friendly bar in the historic San Telmo, offers one of the best tango shows in town every half-hour. The 65-peso (about $20) ticket includes free pizza and empanadas.
-El Viejo Almacén - Avenida Independencia 300 - San Telmo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4307-7388, 4300-3388 - Open: daily
One of the best-known tourist joints, with a solid dinner show.
-El Club del Vino - Cabrera 4737 – Palermo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4833-0050
As the name suggests, the Club del Vino is primarily an oenophiles' association, but its intimate theatre is also a wonderful place to catch live tango. Don't miss the legendary Quinteto Real's regular sessions.

*Favourite bars - Though Porteños don’t tend to be heavy drinkers, Buenos Aires has bars for all tastes. You’ll find no sign of the recession in the city centre (especially the streets of San Martin and Reconquista). Irish theme pubs continue to mushroom, catering to office workers and businessmen. Try the Kilkenny (Marcelo T de Alvear 399) or the Down Town Matias (Reconquista 701). A trendier crowd hangs out in Palermo Viejo, with dozens of restaurants and bars centred around Plaza Serrano. Also fashionable is neighbouring Palermo Hollywood, so-called because of the number of film and television studios in the area.
-El Gran Bar Danzón - Libertad 1161 – Tribunales - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4811-1108
Tucked away on a first floor, the Danzón serves tempting cocktails and food in a relaxed atmosphere, though when the place gets full it can be hard to move. Best get here early in the evening for happy hour and, with a bit of luck, one of the occasional jazz performances.
-Milión - Paraná 1048 - Barrio Norte - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4815-9925
The drinks are probably slightly better at the Danzón, but the Milión is pretty special. Housed in a three-storey former family mansion, the bar's mood is laid-back and the garden is a great place to sit out on warm evenings.
-Notorious - Avenida Callao 966 - Barrio Norte - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4813-6888/4815-8473
A combination of bar, restaurant and record shop, Notorious is a fine place to listen to music while grabbing a snack or a drink. In the front part, you can listen to any of 2,600 CDs—blues, Brazilian, classical, Latin or jazz—on the store's computerised system. There is a proper restaurant-café at the back, with live music most nights of the week (expect a cover charge of around $3 on performance nights).
-La Cigale - 25 de Mayo 722 – Centre - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4312-8275
A pleasantly open and comfortable bar in the heart of the business district, La Cigale can get loud when a DJ or rock band plays. Look out for cultural events and a regular Soirée Française, organised by the French owners.
-The Shamrock - Rodríguez Peña - Barrio Norte - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4812-3584
One of the first (and least contrived) Irish bars to open in Buenos Aires, the Shamrock is a favourite haunt for gringos and their Argentine admirers. DJs from around the world play in the downstairs Basement Club on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
-Barbaro - Tres Sargentos 415 – Retiro - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4381-6856
Founded in 1969, Barbaro claims to be Buenos Aires's first pub; true to its genre, it remains a relaxed and informal place to quaff a few pints. There is a cover charge when musicians play, usually on Fridays and Saturdays.
-Blues Special - Almirante Brown 102 - La Boca - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4854-2338
The no-frills, spit-and-sawdust atmosphere is perfect for the live blues on offer at this club on the border between La Boca and San Telmo. Fridays is rock night, but blues music prevails on Saturdays and Sundays, with a regular jam session on the latter day.

-Oliverio (Parana St between Corrientes Av and Sarmiento St) plays alternative and fusion. It is located in the same block as the Centro Cultural General San Martin, which organizes a Jazz cycle called "Jazzologia" once a week. This cycle is ridiculously cheap (ar$5 or 10 the entrance, if not free at all) and of high quality.
-Cafe Tortoni (Av de Mayo in the 800s) plays traditional Jazz in one of the oldest cafes of Buenos Aires. A must go.
-El Samovar de Rasputin (Almirante Brown Av and Pi i Margall St). Nice place, although sketchy since it is located in La Boca, near Parque Lezama.

Wise Buys
-Buenos Aires offers excellent leather goods, gems, and designer clothes. Argentine wines are surprisingly good and inexpensive. Handcrafted items like the mate (hollowed out gourd used for drinking yerba, a popular Argentine drink much like tea or coffee) and native artworks are great bargains at the street markets.
-Leather Goods. Argentina is noted for high quality leather goods, including shoes, purses and coats. You may purchase leather products in any of the numerous shops that line downtown's Florida street, or you can venture out a bit off the beaten path by going to the leather district. Take a cab to Scalabrini Ortiz and Murillo. The stores are mostly along Murillo and Malabia streets. There are probably 50 stores within three blocks of each other. Here are some examples: http://www.kitarocueros.com.ar/ http://www.siciliano-cueros.com.ar/
-Jewelry. Jewelry stores line Ave. Libertad from about the 100-500 block. Gold, silver, precious gems, watches and antique jewelry are all sold here. The sheer volume of stores increases the competition and keeps prices low.
-Antiques. Defensa Street in San Telmo is line with antique stores selling everything from turn of the century imported clocks to elaborate silver mates from Mendoza.
-Shopping Centers. There are a number of shopping centers in Buenos Aires. Alto Palermo is near Ave. Santa Fe and the Buenos Aires subte. Gallerias Pacifica is located downtown at the corner of Cordoba and Florida. Patio Bullrich is an upscale mall located on Libertador, near Montevideo. Costanera is the largest mall in Argentina, but is a bit out of the way, probably a 10-15 peso cab ride from your homestay or the school. Get an overview of the various malls here: http://www.altopalermo.com.ar/
-After the peso's devaluation at the beginning of 2002, Buenos Aires went from being the most expensive city in Latin America to one of the cheapest. Inflation has eaten away some of that improvement, especially in businesses aimed at tourists, but bargains can still be had. Since the style and tastes of the city are largely European, there is little in the way of exotic handicrafts, but the local design and fashion industries are thriving, as a stroll through the Palermo Viejo district will confirm.
-Argentina's beef industry has spawned a flourishing market in leather goods, though the run-of-the-mill outlets often lack imaginative design and the leather's quality can be patchy. Antique-hunters will enjoy browsing in the San Telmo district. You might also want to pick up a maté gourd, the traditional server for the bitter national drink.
-One tasty speciality is dulce de leche, a thick jam made of caramel fudge, which is served with desserts, used as the filling for cakes and pastries and even eaten by itself.
-Calle Florida in the centre of town is a pedestrianised thoroughfare packed with shops aimed at tourists, but it has seen better days. For one-stop shopping, especially for clothes, visit one of the high-end malls dotted around town, such as Patio Bullrich (Posadas 1245, Recoleta), Galerías Pacífico (corner of Avenida Córdoba and Florida, centre) or Alto Palermo (Avenida Santa Fe 3523, Palermo).

*Gourmet products
-Havanna
Pick up a tub of dulce de leche at Havanna (there are branches dotted around the city). Other top brands are La Salamandra or Chimbote. Havanna also specialises in good alfajores, traditional cornflower biscuits, covered in chocolate or icing sugar and filled with jam or—you guessed it—dulce de leche.
-Valenti Especialidades - Patio Bullrich - Posadas 1245 – Recoleta - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4815-3080/90
Meats, cheeses and fish imported from around the world are on offer, as well as plenty of fresh bread. You can combine the ingredients and order a fresh sandwich.
-La Bourgogne - Ayacucho 2027 – Recoleta - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4805-3857, 4808-2100
This fine restaurant in the Alvear Palace hotel has a tiny gourmet store attached, where you can buy fresh oysters and a range of French breads and pastries. This is perhaps the only place in Buenos Aires that sells real French-style croissants, rather than medialunas—the sweet and doughy Argentine variety.
-Persicco - Migueletes 886 – Palermo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 5778-5500
Designer ice-cream in chic surroundings at high prices. Persicco has a delivery service in some areas of the city: check the website for details. Other branches are at Avenida Rivadavia 4933, Caballito (4904-0900); Salguero 2591, Palermo (4808-0888); and Cerrito 1567, Retiro (4393-1010).

*Fashion - It doesn’t take long to realise that Porteños are the ultimate fashion victims (you may also note a passion for cosmetic surgery; even Carlos Menem, a former president, boasted about having his hairline moved). If you like the look, head to Recoleta or Palermo Viejo. The latter is more interesting, with edgy designer boutiques, art shops, bars and restaurants. There are always new shops opening and old ones closing: be sure to pick up the latest shopping and dining maps of the area, free at most local businesses. You will also find numerous street-sellers offering bags, jewellery and candles at bargain prices, although the quality varies.
-Recoleta features international names like Kenzo, Christian Dior and Versace centred around the street of Posadas—where you can also check out the upmarket Patio Bullrich mall. Several other shopping malls dot the area; these generally offer hurried shoppers a good variety of leading local designers under the same roof.
-In the centre, Galerías Pacífico (corner of Avenida Córdoba and Florida) is an attractively renovated building that houses many leading designers, while Alto Palermo is a newer development in Palermo (Avenida Santa Fe 3253).
-A final word of warning: if you spend much time shopping, eventually you will probably be offered cashmere at bargain prices. Do not be tempted: the quality is often dubious and the cloth sheds hairs like a Persian cat in summer.
Centre:
-Giesso - Avenida Santa Fe 1557 - Barrio Norte - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4816-6544 or 4811-3717
This long-established clothing chain caters mainly to businessmen. There are also branches in the larger shopping centres, including Galerias Pacifico (see below).
Palermo Viejo:
-Trosman - Armenia 1998 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4833-3058
Jessica Trosman's super-chic clothes have won fans as far afield as New York and Tokyo. She has another branch in the Patio Bullrich mall.
-Nadine - El Salvador 4638 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4834-6235
Original designs for men and women.
-Balthazar - Gorriti 5131 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4834-6235
Classic men's clothing, especially shirts and T-shirts.
-Hermanos Estebecorena - El Salvador 5960 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4772-2145
Trendy men's clothing and shoes
-Salsipuedes - Honduras 4814 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4831-8467
Informal, youthful styles for women. The associated accessories shop is just a few yards away at Honduras 4874.
-La Aurora - Honduras 4838 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4833-4965
Young, bright and trendy women's clothing by various designers.
-María Marta Facchinelli - El Salvador 4741 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4831-8424
Acclaimed designer with showrooms in New York and Paris.
-28 Sport - Fitz Roy 1962 - Tel: 54 (0) 11 4776-6007
Casual footwear inspired by the sports shoes of the 1940s and 1950s. Although each pair is a one-off, the prices are surprisingly affordable.
Recoleta:
-Christian Lacroix - Patio Bullrich - Posadas 1245 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4814-7475/6
This French-run store (with Argentine prices) offers women's apparel and a good selection of ties, shirts and jackets for men. There are other branches in Paseo Alcorta and Palermo (Seguí 4664).
-Uma - Patio Bullrich - Posadas 1245 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4814-7435
Modern women's fashions, especially in leather. There are other branches in Belgrano (Cabildo 1786), Palermo Viejo (Honduras 5225), and the Galerías Pacífico, Paseo Alcorta and Alto Palermo malls.
-Tramando/Casa Matriz - Rodríguez Peña 1973 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4811-0465, 4816-9422
Martín Churba used to work with Jessica Trosman, but has struck out on his own and opened this attractive boutique in Recoleta. It specializes in women's clothing, though a section for home products is planned.
-Rapsodia - Libertad 1673 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4816-1610
Informal women's and children's wear with a hippy flair. Other branches are in the Las Cañitas district and the Paseo Alcorta mall.
-Laura Valenzuela - Ayacucho 2189, ground floor - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4800-1752 (ring before visiting)
Daringly sensual, retro designs for women.
-Guido Mocasines - Avenida Quintana 333 - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4811-4567
One of three branches, this stately shoe emporium has long catered to the country's rich and powerful. Unfortunately, it no longer makes footwear to measure, but the shoes remain hand-crafted.

*Leather goods - Given the size of its beef industry, Argentina should be a world-class leather producer. Surprisingly, though, the country has always had too few top-class designers, and the quality of the raw leather has long been iffy. The stores listed below offer good quality. If you're looking for bargains, head for Murillo street in the Villa Crespo district; Murillo 666 is the name and address of one of the area's finest shops.
-Skin - Branches at Galerías Pacífico, Patio Bullrich and Alto Palermo shopping centres. - Tel: +54 (0) 11 5555-5259
Women's bags, shoes and belts in a slightly garish, kitsch style.
-Navarro - Galerías Pacífico, ground floor – Centre - Tel: +54 (0) 11 5555-5260
Classic designs in shoes, jackets and accessories for men and women.
-Prüne - Florida 963 – Retiro - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4893-2634
Bags, jackets and accessories, mainly for women. Other branches are in the Alto Palermo, Paseo Alcorta, Patio Bullrich, Galerías Pacífico and Abasto shopping malls.
-Casa López - Marcelo T de Alvear 640 – Retiro - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4311-3044/5
Traditional leather goods. Other branches at the Patio Bullrich and Galerías Pacífico shopping malls and the duty-free section of Ezeiza airport.

*Florists - Most Porteños get their flowers from the numerous street stalls that are dotted around the city. If you want something a bit more exotic try:
-Savia Flores y Poesía - Honduras 5328 - Palermo Viejo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4834-6807
Very friendly staff with a wide range of fresh flowers.
-La Mejor Flor - Honduras 4900 - Palermo Viejo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4832-1118
Well-known and slightly hectic specialist florist with another branch in Recoleta (Ayacucho 2134).

*Gift-shopping - Although Argentina offers little in the way of exotic handicrafts, there are many small outlets for traditional gaucho products, such as gourds, leather whips and silverware. Look in just about any mall or keep a lookout as you wander through the centre of town. Otherwise try Platería Parodi (see below).
-Argentine women are among the world's highest spenders on lingerie, and such stores abound. Tastes tend to be somewhat conservative, though. Caro Cuore, one of the leading chains, can be found in several malls and throughout the city.
-For handicrafts, wander the leafy streets of the Palermo Viejo district, visit the crafts fair at Plaza Francia, or stroll through the Paseo el Retiro, a street fair modelled on Madrid's El Rastro.
-Paseo el Retiro - Avenida de Los Immigrantes between Antárdita Argentina and Ramón Castillo Saturdays 12pm-10pm, Sundays 10pm-8pm - Entrance is free; rain suspends the market.
-Celedonio Lohidoy - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4803-7292 (ring for appointment)
Bijoux jewellery for all ages. Celedonio has stores around the world, but in Argentina you must ring for an appointment to visit the workshop.
-Francesca Romana - Posadas 1387 – Recoleta - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4816-5736
Opulent, classical jewellery ripe with gold and precious stones appeals to a somewhat older, up-market crowd.
-Platería Parodi - Avenida de Mayo 720 – Centre - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4342-2207
Maté, Argentina's bitter traditional tea, is something of an acquired taste, but the gourds in which the tea is served can be elaborately worked examples of local craftsmanship. Try this shop, which also sells local jewellery and leather accessories.
-Maidana - Avenida Rivadavia 1923 – Congreso - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4953-2257
This hatter seems to have been preserved from a bygone age. The attention is thus impeccably courteous, as the owner either finds your choice of headwear from stock or takes your measurements to make something to measure. The only drawback is that the shop is just opposite Congress, so you may have to brave marches or protests to collect your hat.
-Arte Étnico Argentino - El Salvador 4600 - Palermo Viejo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4833-6661
Antique carpets from the Santiago del Estero province, many of which show their 50-plus years. A few newer, cheaper carpets are also available and, if you are prepared to wait a few months, can even be made to order.
-Papelera Palermo - Honduras 4945 - Palermo Viejo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4833-3081/3672
All sorts of notebooks and paper products, including handmade paper. There is a smaller branch in Barrio Norte (Arenales 1170).
-Gropius Design - Honduras 5851 - Palermo Viejo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4774-2094, 4776-4420
Lovingly restored antique furniture and accessories from the 1920s to 1970s. The ideal place for kitsch and nostalgia fans. The branch two blocks away, at Honduras 6027, sells new furniture with the same retro feel.
-OdA - Costa Rica 4670 - Palermo Viejo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4831-7403
Art objects by various designers.
-Spoon - Honduras 4867 - Palermo Viejo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4831-3786
Fashionable furniture and home accessories.
-Babel - Serrano 1542 - Palermo Viejo - Tel: +54 (0) 11 4831-5229
Just off the Plaza Serrano, this designer bric-a-brac store is a neighbourhood classic. The sister store across the street (Serrano 1527) specialises in jewellery and bags.

You're just "planning" your first trip to Buenos Aires?!?!

If only Bush and Rumsfeld did as much research and planning BEFORE entering Iraq as you did for BA! (LOL - I had to get in my political jab).

Anyway, thanks for sharing. I just hope you didn't overplan your visit.

Have fun in BA! It's a great city to visit.

Yujin - Agreed ... I always OVER-plan! Prior to my 3-2003 visit to Lima, Peru, I had compiled a 30-some page manifesto on the city of Lima (and las Peruvianas, of course!). Rather than simply throwing these things away, I figured that I may as well share them prior to my visits. BsAs is for 2-2005, so - rest assured - I will make a finer detailed itinerary; for me, planning is part of the fun.

¡Todo al máximo, mi amigo!

Play274,

Nice work. It will take over a year to visit all the places that you have mentioned.

Have fun,

Moondog

I have no problem with your using significant portions of my report....just glad someone found it useful....I, too, like to prepare.....enjoy...disfruta....

Moondog and Pirate:

Thanks for letting me put this together. Rest assured, I will come up with an improved "non-monger cheat sheet" with other contacts, airlines, etc. - by the end of the year. This forum has made things extremely easy for me, and the least I can do it help others in a similar manner.