Excerpt from 2002/10 Excat - Bare Eyes

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Flying from the USA to Lima on a Friday night, several things had changed from the get-go. Arrivals were now timed for about 11 pm and the mornings. Arrival around 3 am was over. Good. The bad. The 11 pm arrival included four flights, namely, American, Delta, Continental, and United. There must have been nearly 1000 of us deplaned passengers crammed in the narrow hallway leading to the Immigration counters. Many were filling out their entry forms in the hallway. A lot of them wore similar tee shirts like a group of 50 on my flight that were emblazoned with epithets like Jesus Saves. Maybe they were payback for crack and wetbacks.

One guy, fatter than me with either a beer gut or pregnant, old looking fifties, slovenly in clothes and body tone, and uglier than me (FOSU), asked to borrow my pen sticking out of my shirt pocket. I should have said no. But I was jammed fore and aft by many people who were not moving. I loaned him my pen and then some people in front moved forward and I followed. It was slow, but I jumped into a newly-forming line and got through Immigration in about half an hour. The actual review of my passport and entry form took about two minutes. I went to the baggage area, which looked similar to two years earlier, with only two long conveyor belts. Right, how can two baggage carousels handle four flights? After another half an hour, my bags came out. The ugly. I looked around and the FOSU guy still had not enter the baggage area as well as many others I saw behind me waiting in the Immigration lines. He sort of looked missionary, so would he do the Christian thing and look for me to return my pen? He could have been a monger and one of those guys who e-mail you asking many questions and never posting a decent report or sending a thank-you e-mail. Common courtesy, decency, or sensitivity is not a human quality for them. I grabbed my bags, said goodbye to my pen, and mentally kicked myself for helping a fellow stupid American traveler.

I did not love my pen as a writing instrument. I had others in my bags. I liked it because it had a metal clip, instead of a stiff plastic clip, which kept it from falling out of my shirt pocket when I bend over, like to kiss a girl's ass. Can you imagine bending over, losing your pen, and then having to stoop to pick up your lost pen? It ruins the moment of the kiss. Also, the pen had a retractable point, which would be useful as a last ditch weapon. Just grab the pen, thumb down the top to make the point come out, and then jam into an eye or throat. Of course, a screwdriver would be better, or even a rolled up magazine. Actually, you can also use a magazine unrolled with the pages out in a slashing motion. Imagine a paper cut to the eyeball. I had other pens like the one I loaned at home, but not in my bags. Luckily I have never had to use a weapon, but knowing your options might be a lifesaver.

While waiting for my bags, I cleared my bladder in a one-stall men's room. Then I exchanged $100 bills for local currency, 3.39 soles per US$ 1, at an exchange booth, near the baggage carousels and a few feet away from and in front of the short passageway to the men's room. Sign on the booth's window said U.S. bills only, no traveler's checks.

After clearing Customs on pushing a button and getting the green light, there appeared another change. Before, you would go directly forward about 20 feet through the glass doors and onto the sidewalk in front of the airport terminal. A crowd of taxi drivers would encircle, offer a ride to Miraflores for $17 or 60 soles, and tried to grab your bag to lead you to his taxi. A little nerve-racking, because your pockets could easily be rifled while your hands are holding on to your bags. In front of the terminal is a large ground-level parking lot for several hundreds of vehicles and a driveway with a guarded entrance that led counterclockwise in front of the terminal and continues around to a guarded exit back on to the street. If one waited next to the driveway, a taxi would drive by and a ride to Miraflores could be had for 40 soles. Or, if one wanted to take a chance, one could leave the terminal and walk to the right following the driveway about 100 yards to the exit. On the main street to the immediate right were a few parked taxis and a local bus stop. In February 2000, a ride from Miraflores to the airport in a street taxi could be had for 30 soles. The reason that these taxis did not enter the driveway through the airport grounds was that they lacked a special permit. Be sure to ask the taxi driver if he will leave you in front of the airport building or in the street from where you will have to walk.

This time the area after Customs but still inside the building has booths to the left. The front doors were blocked off, so one has to walk to the left. The first booth was another money exchange booth. It had a long line. It had a sign listing a slightly lower rate than what the exchange booth next to the luggage carousel gave, but it did not say anything about US bills or traveler's checks. Next were three booths, two for taxi rides and one for a bus ride. Both booths listed the taxi fare to Miraflores as US$ 20. The bus ride to Miraflores was lower, US$ 10. My colleague who missed his Delta connection in Atlanta arrived in the morning and took the bus, which took almost one hour to get to Miraflores and he was the only passenger. My taxi ride was convenient, in a fairly new, well-upholstered, air-conditioned mid-size car and took about 45 minutes in slightly heavy traffic after Friday midnight. So, the airport taxi is more expensive, but safe, comfortable, and organized especially at midnight.
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Regarding the airport, naturally as gringos we are going to be quoted the worst price upon walking out on the sidewalk, eyes blinking wide and looking like marks. Typically I get first quotes of $20-$30 for airport to Miraflores.

The thing to do here is laugh and tell them you live in peru and won't pay gringo prices. The actual cost of a taxi from inside the airport to Miraflores is 20-35 soles, or $6-$10. Since the price of gas is around $3 a gallon down there, i don't begrudge the taxistas 30, but almost never more.

You can go out to the street and get the same thing for 15-20 soles but its a risk with bags.

Coming back to the airport from Miraflores is 15-25 soles for a cab off the street. Try to pick one that looks decent. You should specify before entering the cab whether you want the guy to take you inside the airport or leave you on the front street, as many taxistas don't have the airport permit required to enter. Expect to pay 2-5 soles extra for entry.

My flight was on American Airlines, took it from Miami late at night. when i arrived at the "Jorge Chavez" International Airport in Lima, i think it was already about 4 am. clearing inmigration/customs was a breeze and had no problems. Airport was kind of modest to my surprized, was expecting something bigger or fancier for a premier airport for this country, anyways, maybe just confussed.change a little of money and there are lots of guys offering their taxi services. was glad to have my friend with me 'cause his brother was waiting for him so i was like a towing friend (didn't mind!!!!). think you can pay about S/.15-25 for the ride to any hotel in town. don't recommend going past the parking lot and on the main avenue outside the airport, not smart thing to do. trying to save a buck or two could end up costing you get robbed.///

RT here. This morning, Angie (my Peru girlfriend) chased four cabs before we found one that would go to the Airport from Miraflores (with a stop at her house to drop off her stuff) for 25 Soles. There are now toll booths about a half mile before the airport, so the price will go up a couple of Soles when they get operational. Gas is up to $4 or $5 there, so getting a local ride for 3 Soles is getting harder. Four seems to be the norm now, but three can be had for short local trips.

I will be travelling to lima for the first time in may. I am actually going with a co-worker but he is going to be staying with his grandfather and I have elected to stay in miraflores. I will like to know if anyone can give pointers on picking up semi-pro and non-pros. I speak very little spanish