I have lived in Rio de Janeiro for the last 5 years. I really don't miss the United States that much except for one thing - golf. Golf is the type of game that gets in your head, and after a round, you are always considering where you could pick up another stroke or two.

So I made it my mission to play golf in Rio de Janeiro. Corto Gringo came down in November and we decided to give it a whirl. Golf is not a popular sport in Brazil and there is only one golf course in all of Rio, Gavea Golf and Country Club. It is in São Conrado, which is the beach between Leblon and Barra.

I called to make a tee time and the guy explained the fees. He said that it was R$350/person for the greens fees. R$200 to rent a cart, R$100 each to rent clubs. R$30 for a sleeve of three balls. R$ to rent shoes, etc. I was thinking. Man this is expensive! But when you add it up, it is not significantly more than a nice course in CA, but a lot more expensive than a round in Myrtle Beach. But then he said, payment must be in cash. I figured, you only live once, so I decided to get the cash and head on over to the course with CG.

The course is not so easy to find. As soon as you go through the tunnel from Gavea to São Conrado, you need to bear right and go a little through Roçinho to find the access road for the golf course. I missed the access road, and almost had to go all the way back to Gavea to find it.

We get there and the parking lot was barren. The guy that I had spoke to on the phone was in fact waiting for us. We go to a little office area, and we discuss the fees, and I pay the sum. He then takes us back to the caddy area where there were about 8 guys sitting around a case of beer drinking like no tomorrow. We get our balls, clubs, the cart, and they give us two caddies as well.

As we get to the first tee, CG and I inspect our equipment and things are strange. My clubs are total shit. The grips are all worn out. CG's balls are not new and not the same brand. The cart was a gas cart. They actually recommended that we walk, but since I was unfamiliar with the course, I thought a cart would be better.

So we begin to play and the rust was evident on both of us. We both hit some good shots but consistency was a problem. The course is very hilly. There are lots of changes in altitudes which makes it challenging and scenic. Since we are in São Conrado, there are a few holes with beautiful views of the Atlantic Ocean.

As I said before, there was no one else on the course, which was strange. Furthermore the condition of the course was poor. In particular, the greens were almost total sand. Even without the sand problem, the greens were very tough. Lots of large mounds and big wavy greens.

We decided to get some beers and we both finally found a rhythm around hole #6. I hit quite a few good shots in a row, and so did CG. But then it started pouring rain. It was a true downpour. So we run back to the club house and every one was gone! I am thinking that golf invented the term rain check. I run around the office, and finally I find a secretary. The guy had not given me a receipt, but the secretary gave me a receipt. It was only for the green fees and not the cart, club rental etc.

So in conclusion. I am happy that I played golf here in Rio, but I think I got played. My theory is that the club was closed for maintenance that day. Regular management was not there that day, and they decided to take advantage of me. But all's well that ends well. I called the next day, and I spoke with secretary and she confirmed that my rain check would be good for another round if I like.

I've played a few times in curitiba, course was not badly maintained at all and it was very reasonably priced. Was another private club and I booked it both times thru the bluetree. Also played once in SP...

Just to add a bit to BT's commentary, we were also required to take caddies. Our caddies names were Anderson and Wellington, they both were from Roçinho. I have to say they were not very good at reading the greens, I mean sand, they couldn't take a photo to save their lives, but man could they track a golf ball. I send some shots deep into the jungle and didn't lose a ball, Wellington found each and every one of those little buggers.
CG

BT & Corto,

I never heard of Roçinho in the Rio area. I have heard of and seen Roçinha. Are these two different places or is it one and the same and spelled differently here?


Cubanut

Cubanut,
Yes, it is one in the same. Such a contrast, just a couple of blocks from the entrance of the favela is this country club surrounded by big expensive homes. We did see a pretty nice looking love motel just before the golf course.
CG

If I were to sum up my biggest disappointment, I would say it was the greens. When you pay top dollar, then I wanted the greens to be in superb shape, and it was the opposite. They very well may be the worst greens, I have ever played.

The highlight is the course layout. There are tons of changes in elevations, and when you are up high, you have some great views of the Atlantic Ocean.

As long as you live down there, you should probably think like the Japanese when it comes to golf - fly to Hawaii or somewhere for 2-3 days and get in 36 holes each day, then head back home. In your case, just head up to Miami for a weekend and get in a few rounds.

I love golf. But unless its a golf vacation I never take my clubs. I'll never forget the time I met my broker in the Del Rey lobby, I flew in the day before. Anyway, here he comes into the hotel at around 10pm, hundreds of p4p and guys around, schleping luggage and GOLF CLUBS. The girls looked at him like what the fuck is he carring, the guys looked at him like he must have gotten on the wrong plane. It was the funniest thing I had seen in a while. So I recommend setting up club rental before you leave. NEVER take your sticks to a mongering destination.

Is it difficult finding child's-size clubs to rent? Also, do most foreign golf courses have ladies' tee-box's, or do you have to tee off from regulation?

LL; If you go to Pattaya you may want to bring your clubs with you. They have a couple of driving ranges and courses to play. If you stay at the Whitehouse Condotel the manager is a big golfing fan.

RG.

Cat,
Don't worry they have clubs to fit you. And, if you insist, they will let you tee off from the reds.

roadglide,
Thanks for th info. I have rented clubs twice. Once at melia Conchal, now called Paradisus Conchal in Playa Conchal in Guanacaste. An outstanding course in anybodies book. The gave us the ping demos to use,great clubs at the time.
We brought our own shoes. My wingman bought new shoes for the trip and when we got there he discovered he had 2 left shoes, he played the whole round barefoot! The other course was the Cariari hotel and country club. That one is a very nice, mature course and an easy walk with great caddies. Very scenic, you can see the volcano in the distance. And my caddie, carlos fixed me up with a girl he knew, a little spinner 18, 19 yrs old! It was a great trip.

At the Gavea golf course, there are only the equivalent of blue and white tees in the United States. CG and I played from the whites.