Out In the Night
Through The Whispering Breezes
To the Place Where They Keep
The Imaginary Diseases

Well, 10 p.m. rolls around, and I decide to walk to Help Discoteca. It's about a 10-minute walk, and I am well aware of the stories of crime and robbery along Ave. Atlantica at nighttime. I know I'll take a cab back to the hotel late at night, but I absolutely must walk the street at night to get the flavor. Call it an old habit, from many a long, lonely night in the Apple. As I fall into gait, I notice locals backing up cars into dormant parking spaces, trunks open and music blaring. The young are taking over the nightlife, their smooth skin exposed to the warm ocean air. The sidewalks are populated by only the occasional tourist couple, whereas daytime found the walk full of such people. Instead, I now see some homeless folk, resting on benches, their feet hard as cement and rotting. Some skanky SWs pass by on occasion, but I aint takin. I want to see this Help phenomenon. Not track marks on skin. I arrive and mill about with the small crowd that's gathered in front. It's still 30 minutes or so before the doors open, and there's a cute mulatta there who I speak to in broken Portunol, asking what time the doors open. She's no great shakes, but is cute enough, with hip-hugging white Levis and a pink shirt. Her hair is curly and short. And she has a cute figure and what appear to be an all-natural chest. I ask her if she wants a cigarette, and she says yes. Then I ask her her name in Portuguese. (I forget; I'm so sorry) I ask her if she wants a drink. Again yes. So we take a table at the Terrace Atlantica (not sure name is correct) right outside the Disco. We talk. I exercise my basic Pimsleur to the max. She's very sweet. Not pushing. I know she's plying her wares tonight. But she's patient, and doesn't broche the subject until after I aske her if she trabajas siempre noche along the Avenida. She says sometimes. After 2 beers she asks where I'm staying and if I'd like to relax (pronounced Hey-la-she) I tell her I like her in Brazilian Port, but that tonight, eu no quero. Well, after she left and I was waiting for the first line of guys to finish entering the disco about 45 minutes later, my garota de avenida atlantica reappears. I relent, and we hop in a cab.

Our Lovely, Global Network
of Homogeneous Cab Drivers


Now, I know a cab ride to my hotel from Help is supposed to cost 5 reals. As soon as I get in the cab with Garota, the bastard wants 10 real. Eff you, pal. I say run the meter. And he refuses to move, citing the hour of night and that this is standard practice. Well, I’m not about to test the sidewalks at this hour. Why tempt fate? So I pay up. (In fact, only one of the three cabs I took back from Help during my stay would run the meter; the others would cite the wee-morning hour as necessitating a $10 fee. The one who ran the meter was rewarded with a 2-real tip – honesty does pay.) Why is it that all of the world’s cities are loaded with shakedown artists who are licensed by their respective local governments to run taxis?

Hotel: No problems with the Garota.
Just Pay $14

Obnoxious rule. But at least it’s not a complete denial of freedom. Just a $14 nuisance. Fine. Bill it to my room. Up I go with lovely outside-of-Help spinner. We talk a while; I take out a map of Rio. No money is discussed. We put on TV; get some beers from the frigibar. I tell her how much I like the soft drink guarana, which indeed, I do. She tells me which sections of Rio to avoid at all costs, and advises against the Metro. Hmmmm….. I’ve heard good things about the trains, I tell her. She then tells me about a gang shooting just the previous day. I tell her that happens in NYC, yet people still ride the rails there. But she insists, no bom. When I point to Centro, she flatly states: No bom. “No bom?” I look at her, surprised. Heck, I know 4x4 is in Centro, as well as some museums and a historic walking tour listed on my LonelyPlanet map. It also looked like a business district from the highway coming into town from the airport. I can’t believe what I’m hearing. But she insists: Centro, no bom. Maybe someone can shed light on this: Why would a Brasilera be so down on Centro? My mulatta in the white jeans and I finally get around to discussing the fee of $150 reals. Fine. Works out to $42US. Loving life. She showers, and returns to give me BBBJTC. The vacuum-suction power of her mouth is remarkable. Afterward, I bend her over for some doggy action and complete deep inside. She leaves about 20 minutes later. I’m finally starting to feel less guilty about the economic power I’m wielding in this magical land.

Deanyc, did you discuss multiple rounds before hand or was she just being generous? Most of the girls who work in front of Help, run out the door as soon as you get a nut.

Thumper. This girl was generous, indeed. The next two nights would yield Help garotas who behaved exactly as you said. I found that to be disconcerting; How do you get these gals to stay the night?

Deanyc,
Your Help garota is full of shit about Centro and the metro. The drug gangs have shot up buses with some regularity in recent months, but not the metro. With respect to Centro, it's as safe as anywhere else in Rio, especially during the daylight hours. At night it can get a little dicey, but nowhere near as bad as Copa gets after 2 a.m.

Bwana: I figured as much, having read your numerous posts about 4x4, as well as the updated Guide you authored, which served as a bible for my trip preparation. I wonder why this chica would shit all over Centro?

In defense to the Help garota, there was indeed a shooting in the metro the other day in March. A little girl got killed by a stray bullet. This was a robbery, not drug related. The girl is probably from the countryside as Rio and SP have lot more violence than other cities in Brasil.

Athos,

Indeed, that likely was the incident she was referring to, as a recent event was obviously resonating with her. I did my best to understand her explanation. And, perhaps she was from the countryside, hence her non-professional demeanor and easy-going nature.

Yes, it was an unusual incident. The cheap local buses, on the other hand, can be pretty risky. Pick pocketings and muggings are pretty common on the non-aircon buses.

In defense of the Help garota, the media there has really played up all the incidents of violence, and they have the public (and the tourists) scared shitless. I was talking to a friend in São Paulo today, and she said she won't go to Rio because of the violence. She ignores the fact that the murder rate in Sampa is higher than in Rio, but the drug wars make better press than the isolated killings in SP.

I have to say, I felt very safe in Rio. I walked a lot of streets during the day, and even in early evening up to 10:30 p.m. I'm a city boy, so I have a way about my street manner that gives me a better-than-average sense when walking the streets of most urban areas. I also know how NY media can make it seem like everyone's in danger whenever there's a shooting or pickpocketing. Shit. Big cities that have more than a few million people are big places. Lots of crap happens when you put that many people together.
Still, I knew I was a gringo, and wasn't going to push my luck. I know my place.

You grew up in NYC? What part?

Born in Bronx, raised in Yonkers, suburbs.

Cool, another Bronx Brother!! Fordham road baby!!!

Thumper, Sbronx77,

Good to meet you.

Deanyc, Thumper.....Glad to see some Bronx Brothers on the board. I'm born in Harlem, raised in The South Bronx. 158th St and Union Ave. I'll be in Rio soon. Any of you guys there next week? I'd like to meet you guys.

Born in White Plains lived in Yonkers. Across from Cross Country Shoping Center. Now toughing it out in LA.

We should plan a NY reunion in Rio. Just booked a flight for Thanksgiving week. I know its a long way out but gives me a reason to get up each day.

Deanyc:

I have always negotiated before leaving Help that they were staying the night. If they said no I moved on. Most left between 11am-12:30pm the next day, which was fine with me, But I also left Help between 2:30 and 4. Sounds like you left much earlier. Most that i asked agreed and its nice getting another pop in the morning.

Nyl12: Thanks for the advice. My next trip - some time later this year, I'll employ your strategy. I too lived for a while near the Cross County Shopping Center - a NY reunion in RDJ sounds awesome! What days around Thanksgiving will you be in Rio?

Sbronx77: Hope to see you some time in Rio. Can't go back there so soon, but I eagerly await your reports. I did Rio solo when I went. Funny how you don't feel lonely in the city, huh?

Thumper: Fordham Road rocks!

Nov. 24 - Dec 3. lets stay in touch.

NYl12,

Will do.