DINING GUIDE

I have heard it said that there are no ugly women or bad restaurants in Buenos Aires. This bit of hyperbole reminds me of a comment made by pundit Bill Moyer: "I exaggerate, but only to make a point."

Certainly there are restaurants in Buenos Aires that serve mediocre food, and if you stay here long enough you will find some truly ugly women. The former should be against the law in a city with such outstanding food. The latter should be referred to one of the many plastic surgeons found in BsAs.

Follow ole Pirate's advice, matey, and you won't have a problem with the food. You're on your own with the women.

Buenos Aires is blessed with an abundance of restaurants featuring dishes from throughout the world, from Sushi to Scandinavian. Yes, Scandinavian. Honest…and here's the web site to prove it:

http://www.geocities.com/olsenbuenosaires/

But if you are here to immerse yourself in the culture and customs of Argentina, try to focus foremost on Latin American restaurants This begs an obvious question: What is Argentine food?

This will surprise some of you, but Argentine cuisine is not enchiladas and tacos. Argentina is a long way from Mexico. A more authentic Argentine meal is grilled steak, pasta or paella. Even schnitzel or Mongolian beef are more authentically Argentine than tacos. This is another way of saying that immigrants here are more likely to be from Europe or Asia than Mexico.

The pampas of Argentina raise some of the finest beef available anywhere. Unless you are a vegetarian, a visit to a parrilla for a great steak is a must. I prefer the ojo de bife a punto (ribeye, medium well). Hint: Servings are often enormous, so a 1/2 order may well suffice. Italian and Spanish food are the next most popular types of cuisine in Argentina, a reflection of the large Italian and Spanish populations.

You may also want to try these dishes as you eat your way across Argentina:

Empenadas
Patagonian lamb
Rabbit
Pink Salmon
Chicken Verdeo
Ice Cream
Flan (preferably served with dulce de leche, a kind of caramel sauce, and whipped cream)
Creamed Spinach
Pureed Vegetables…such as pumpkin….as a substitute for potatoes
Bread, especially medialunes (croissants) and pan negro (wheat)
Licuados (milk-blended fruit drinks….try a Tuti Fruiti at Valle Rio, located downtown at the corner of Esmeralda and Lavalle)
Coffee…cortado, chico, or con leche….a great way to start the morning. Very strong…
And, of course, there is Mate, the national drink.

Ole Pirate loves a good meal and he loves a bargain. You can find lists of touristy restaurants in all the guidebooks, with a heavy emphasis on Puerto Madero and Recoleta. Certainly, there are some fine restaurants in these areas…but I am going to give you a list of lesser known, often less expensive places to eat. Think of this not so much as a list of the top 10 restaurants in Buenos Aires as a representative sample of the diverse cuisine found in this city beside the Rio de la Plate.

1.1880 Parrilla. Defensa 1665. San Telmo. (T.4307-2746). Steak and other grilled meats are the specialty here. Historical setting, great food, friendly staff. On my last visit I had a grilled provolone appetizer, ojo de bife (rib eye), a bottle of Cason de Lopez Malbec, café con leche, flan caseo with dulce de leche and whipped cream, and an after dinner drink of limoncella. All for 28 pesos. Also recommended pork ribs (pechito de cerdo) and locro stew.

2. Bella Italia Bare. Republica Arabe Siria 3330. Palermo. (T.4807-1591). Italian bar and grill, rumored to be one of Robert Duvall's favorite restaurants in Buenos Aires. Grilled portobello mushroom appetizer, grilled trout served with steamed veggies, tiramasu, and a shared bottle of Nieto Senetiner cab for 30 pesos. Pastas are also outstanding.

The more upscale Bella Italia Restaurant is just down the street at Republica Arabe de Siria 3285. (T.4699-4253). Reservations suggested. About 40 pesos per person.

3. Tancat. Paraguay 645. El Centro.(T.4312-6106) Spanish. Great place for lunch, or to dine before hitting the nearby boliches on Suipacha. Variety and quality of tapas is outstanding, but I like the seafood here. The baby octupus and black rice is delicious, as well as the grilled fish of the day. About 30-40 pesos for a full meal with wine.

4. Nucha. Parana 1343, overlooking Plaza Vincente Lopez. Recoleta (T.4813-9507). Since Argentinos eat late, they sometimes have a snack in the afternoon. The Argentine merienda is not unlike afternoon tea in England, with an emphasis on sweets. This is the perfect spot for small pastries or a brownie and cortado (small coffee with milk). Always crowded.

5. Empire Bar. Tres Sargentos 427. El Centro, just off Reconquista.(T.4312-5706). Trendy Thai bar and restaurant. The 12 peso lunch special comes with either an appetizer or dessert, main course and drink. It is hard to choose between dessert or appetizer! The kiwi and lemon ice cream are outstanding, but so are the spring rolls.

6. Asociacion Japonesa. Avda. Independencia 732. San Telmo. (T.4300-1182). Sushi, tempura and other typical Japanese dishes. No frills setting inside the Japanese Association building. About 30 pesos, including a warm sake or two.

7. Dominga. Honduras 5618. Palermo Hollywood. (T. 4771-4443). Trendy restaurant in a trendy area. Salmon Teryaki and shrimp with black pasta are highly recommended. Save room for the lemon cheesecake with fresh raspberries. 40-50 pesos per person, including wine.

8. La Bisteca. Justo Alicia Moreau 1880. Puerto Madero (T. 4514-4999). Tenedor Libre (all-you-can-eat). Traditional food. Buffet, tables heaping with food. Meats and pastas cooked to order. About 30 pesos, with wine.

9. Pompeii. Cabildo 1985. Belgrano. (T.4781-6788). A great spot for a quick lunch. Try the milanesa de pollo (chicken) for 8 pesos or the sopa de calabaza for 6 pesos.

10. Hooters. Vincente Lopez 2050. Village Recoleta, third level. (T45143434). Tired of things Argentine? Want a taste of good old American food? This is the place….just like home…burgers, fries, wings, cold beer and scantily clad chicas. The only difference is that here there is a touch of irony: the chicas don't have hooters! A flatter chested group of girls I have never seen. 10-15 pesos for a cold beer, burger and fries.

A word or two about eating out in Buenos Aires. Think late. If you eat at 9 or 10 in the evening you will find the restaurants crowded with Argentinos. Much earlier and you will probably be eating by yourself.

A tip of 10% is the norm in Buenos Aires.

This list does not begin to scratch the surface of the available restaurants and cuisine available in Buenos Aires. Here are a couple of web sites that will let you search for restaurants by type of food or barrio/location.

http://www.restaurant.com.ar/
http://www.xsalir.com/secciones/tapa/?catit=638

Here are a couple of web sites for pizza chains that deliver. I especially like Los Inmortales.

http://www.losinmortales.com/eindex.htm
http://www.romario.com.ar-

Great info as always. I'm feeling my need to visit increase. Empenadas... I love these things. I've always wondered if there was something distinctive about Argentine empanadas, compared to ones from other countries. Do you know? Is the chimichurry (pepper-vinegar-onion-garlic) sauce that gets spooned on them often an Argentine invention?

Flan (preferably served with dulce de leche, a kind of caramel sauce, and whipped cream). There's something about the Argentine dulce de leche I've had that makes it 100x better than the basic caramel products I've had.