Chapter 5 – Allison Road

She doesn’t want to get out of this bed this morning. I don’t blame her really because I know it beats the hell out of hers in her apartment.

After doing a little work on my laptop, I get up and head downstairs for the breakfast. I mistakenly went to the wrong floor though and end up going to the big breakfast where you have to pay $R35. However, I inadvertently came in through a back way, down a spiral staircase, so I didn’t have to pay because no one asked me my room number. I only had coffee and toast anyway. Tomorrow I discover this isn’t free when I come in the right way.

My girl is finally up around 3:00 and we get dressed to go to the mall to shop and eat. No “work” for her today. In fact…. well….. nevermind…

At the mall, I end up getting her something for her birthday. On the way back, we snag a taxi outside the mall. This taxi was rigged. It was on the number “1” setting, but this thing was running faster than a Liberal Democrat from morals. It only cost R$5.40 for the trip over there. Halfway back, the meter is up to R$10 already. She notices it and starts to complain as only this one can. The fucker finally stops the meter and we end up paying R$10 even though we went back to a different destination that was a little further away. (see my Addendum Update regarding taxis at the end of this report)

Later, we head back to the hotel room for the night. I know some guys are wondering where I am, but this place is pretty nice and I don’t mind hanging out here. She likes to watch all of the television channels anyway. I also have a new experience while in Rio. They provide high speed internet access into your room for a small charge a day.

Later, she gets hungry again (I think she has a tapeworm) and orders pizza. While ordering, something odd happened. I told Catacony about it and he laughed. Let’s just say that I don’t know where these people down here learn their customer service skills. Other than that, it was a pretty uneventful day, but for the time being, I am stuck on Allison Road….. but I’m not complaining. (you understand that Sweet?)

Assuming you went to Rio Sul shopping, that disparity in prices is not indicative of any scam. 5.40 is about right for the trip there. To get back to Copa taxis have to deal with the one-way street in front of the shopping center and have to go a surprisingly long distance before they can make a u-turn. This can account for the $10R price you describe.

Solutions: When you come out from Rio Sul, turn right, go 100' to the pedestrian tunnel that goes under the road, come up on the other side and hail a taxi going in the correct direction. Also, I have ridden with Don when he has told the drivers of taxis from Rio Sul to take a different route than the longer trip described above. However to do this, I think you have to get the taxi up top on the same floor that the cinemas are instead of in front because you can't access the shorter route from in front of the shopping center.

That is all true, and I know the pedestrian walk-way under the street you refer to. We actually got stuck in the middle section walking back from dinner one night thinking it was going to let us out at some point. We got all the way up to the underground bridge and it said "no pedestrians" on both sides. We had to walk all the way back and go through the pedestrian tunnel.

However, this one was rigged. You know who said something about it first. It was at $R10 and we had barely started back the other way toward Atlantica Avenue. Assuming there was traffic, there is no reason that thing should have been moving that fast since the meter slows to a crawl when idling. It was on the "1" setting too since it was not yet December. Some of those guys are just dirtbags.

At Rio Sul, I've come out on the top floor into the garage and grabbed a taxi, and then taken the route up over the top of the damn hill to swing down into Copa. I think it was about 8 reals to get back to the Marriott that way.

Of course, the guy started off on the long route, but my ex-fav was with me and when she started yelling at him, I knew things were taken care of

Take the bus. It's only R$1.50, with aircondition.

I mentioned taking the bus one time to my girl (just to say I did it) but even she warned me to stay off the bus. Too many shady characters that love to watch and mark people they can rob. It's not worth the risk of a couple of dollars.

Well to each his own, but I travel almost exclusively by bus/Metro in Rio before dark (and cab only after dark). The only exception is when I'm going somewhere I don't know (which means that I don't know which bus to take), or Zona Norte (where I rarely go anyhow). For the Ipanema-Copacabana-RioSul run and back, you're safe enough on the bus (meaning about equal odds to getting robbed in a taxi). And you can always take the little minibuses which are a bit more expensive, but a bit safer. Again, opinions vary greatly about bus travel, but I supect that a lot of the guys who are nervous about the bus just don't know which bus to catch.

BS

Yes Badseed, but aren't you Brazilian, or at least look like one? You probably blend in well since you speak fluent Portuguese. There is no way I can pass for a native. It's probably still relatively safe, but again, unless you are talking about a long trip, you are really only talking about spending $2 or $3 for a taxi.

To go to Ipanema, Leblon, or Sao Conrado, I go to Rua Barata Ribeiro and just take any bus going to these places. If I want to take the minibus to Barra Shopping, I go to Av. Atlantica. Of course, if I take the Barra oni bus, it will also take me to Leblon or Ipanema, or Sao Conrado, etc. Now, if I want to go to Rio Sul, I go the N. S. Copacabana to take the bus. If I want to go to Niteroi, I go to Princesa Isabel to take the oni bus. To go to the Centro, I take the Metro from the Sigueira Campos station which is only a block from my apartment.

To give you an example, you will have to pay around R$30 to Barra in a taxi, compared to R$4 in an oni bus and R$6 on a minibus. It is around the same price to go to Niteroi.

If you are the type that wants to tour the city and other nearby tourist spots (Buzios, etc.) with your favorita , then renting a car for US$20 a day is another option.

Another nice experience is to take the overnight aircon bus to SP (so you do not loose a day and hit SP running). It is more comfortable and luxurious than any bus I have ridden in the US.

Aldaron: I don't look at all Brazilian, most everybody does a double-take when gaucho-accented portuguese comes out of my mouth. Still it helps to at least be able to say "Where the hell does this bus go to?" But as RioRUles wrote, it's really not to hard to figure out, ALL busses goign down N.S. Copacabana pass by RioSul, etc. And you can alwyas ask at your hotel "What bus do I take to get to...". It's not so hard. And taxi rides do add up fast, I'd rather spend the cash on more beer...

BS

I took buses all over the city without incident. The real negative is that they are slow and uncomfortable compared to a taxi. And man, I sure do miss double fisting a cheap beer and a strong caipirinha....

"It's not so hard. And taxi rides do add up fast, I'd rather spend the cash on more beer..." --BS

BS, they do add up, especially if you stay 2 or 3 months at a time.

"I don't look at all Brazilian, most everybody does a double-take..." --BS

I, especially do not look anything like a Brazilian. I am a Filipino. How many Filipinos have you seen in Rio lately? I really stick out like a sore thumb anywhere I go, but this doesn't stop me from experiencing Rio as a native -- eating R$1.20 humburgers at the street cart besides Balcony (at 3 AM) in Av. Atlantica, taking the oni bus to Lapa during weekends and drinking chope on the street -- dancing and talking with complete strangers, taking the Metro to the Centro to buy DVDs for R$6, joining the North-easterners at their weekly festa at Sao Cristovao (where they drink, eat and dance non-stop from Thursday night to Sunday morning -- every single week), visiting artists' studios in Sta. Teresa and riding another mode of transportation, the bonde, and of course taking their buses.

You see, there's more to places we do our mongering than hotels, malls, bars, termas, saunas, discos, clubs and taxis.

Perhaps I will hop on a bus one day just for the experience. I would definitely go more "native" if I were there for months at a time. Taxis do add up. It's easy to forget that you aren't just spending monopoly money and that you had to pay something to actually get it.

RioRules:

Glad to read that you are truly experiencing RIo, as you say there is a lot more to it than putas and beer. Filipino is certainly rare in Brazil, but I'll bet most people peg you as a Nordestino with lots of Indian blood. Anyway, "blending in" is more a question of attitude than looks. Brazil has always been a huge "meltingpot" of peoples, and you can find just about any physical type somewhere in Brazil (there is a region full of ex-COnfederate americans in Sao Paulo, and there is even a bunch of Finns in upstate Rio de Janeiro!). I'm very german (1.85M tall, shaved bullet head, 100kg), common enough in Rio Grande do Sul, but somewhat confusing to the cariocas. Still, as soon as I put on a pair of surfer shorts, flip-flops, and my grubby old Internacional (my team) shirt, choppe in hand, I'm ready for Rio and Rio is ready for me (of course, since Inter walloped Flamengo two weeks ago, maybe I should be discreet about my team strip).

Aldaron:

If it's any consolation, everytime I return to Brazil, the first thing I do is commit an expensive money faux-pas.. I'm tired out fromthe trip and can't remember the exchange rates and I go ahead and do something stupid. In June, for instance, I broke my own rule and took one of those hack cabbies at Galeao to go to Grajau (close to Maracana stadium)... R$120!!! In a yellow taxi it's R$40, dunno where my brains were (still asleep and I was unsure of where the hell Grajau was). Anyway, you do have to get a sense for money in Brazil, even with everything being "cheap". A general rule of thumb is to consider all the prices as if they were dollars (100 reals is the same as 100 dollars) and then mentally giving yourself a 300% payraise (hey, I'm not shlubbing along at US$50,000 a year at my job, I get $150K! I'm rich! But R$30 for a hamburger is still way too much...). Just a mental trick, but helps you navigate with reals.

Abraco to all,

BS

Badseed is totally correct (as usual). Aldaron, I humbly disagree with you and your girl. The bus is not dangerous at all. I never used buses until I started going to Rio more often. When I was dating my girl she wouldn't let me take taxi's. She only uses buses along with most of the people there. If you're in a big hurry or going out to dinner yeah..taxi's are better but if you have time to spare and not in a hurry the buses are a very affordable way to get around.

I would always just say...come on it's only R$7 but people there are programmed to think differently. (at least my girl did). Rio is a great city that has way more to offer than just the girls. I hope people take time to get to see all sides of Rio and it's resources.

Has anyone tried one of the moto-taxis yet? Those appear to be very cheap and fast.

How do the buses take payment. It's been decades since I've taken a bus in the states. I remember dropping coins in a recepticle as you enter. Is it the same in Rio? I'm assuming they don't accept bills, only change. Any specifics would be helpful. I'd hate to hold up a line of passengers because I didn't bring exact change or something stupid like that.

Sterling

Sterling, they take bills on the bus but it is difficult for them to change anything larger than a 10. Bus fares vary from R$1.40 to R$1.60 for most busses, and some are as high as a few reals. You enter the bus, pay an attendant and go through a turnstile. Each bus has both a driver and an attendant.

The tricky part of riding buses is knowing which bus. What I do is spend a few minutes standing in front of a location I will want to return to using the bus, and jot down every number of the buses that pass in front of me.

Buses are generally safe, I havent ever had a problem. But--occasionally a crowd of teenagers from a favela will storm onto a bus. If that happens you should exit immediately. They will rob everyone, and commandeer the bus. I have seen them several times hooting and hollering from the bus as it storms down Ave. Copacabana. It is reminicent of a Mad Max movie.

Having said that, I use the buses or the Metro every day.

Mototaxis are inexpensive, probably 1/3 that of a normal taxi, and quicker. But not for the faint of heart.

This was all I needed to hear:

"occasionally a crowd of teenagers from a favela will storm onto a bus. If that happens you should exit immediately. They will rob everyone, and commandeer the bus. I have seen them several times hooting and hollering from the bus as it storms down Ave. Copacabana. It is reminicent of a Mad Max movie."

I'll spend the extra dollar or two in a taxi. You guys can take in the "culture" of the city on the double-dutch bus.

Gcl,

Thanks for the primer on buses. I'll probably give them a try when I'm in town next month...right after I buy you a beer.

See you then,
Sterling

Come on Alderon...where is your sense of adventure?

I think bus travel is safe...no more dangerous then walking around Copa. That same group of teenagers could rob you on the sidewalk.

(Message edited by gcl on December 10, 2003)

I can run like Forrest Gump though. There is no place to run on a bus.

Speaking of buses, Ray and I came up with an idea while at Monte Carlo, waiting to go to the airport - get Don to get a small bus of some sort, put a bed or two and some lights and music in it, and have a little rolling terma, right out to the airport. I mean, the drive is about 20 minutes with no traffic but usually at least a half-hour, just enough time to kick one out.

Actually, someone needs to put a terma at the airport - on the other side of immigration, preferably, so you can clear customs and everything and have a very nice wait for your plane. Nobody would ever complain about flight delays again!

I want to be in Rio right now.......

Uh... There's always Terma Aeroporto. But I like the bus idea, just wonder how long till the police pull over this rocking and rolling bus........

As for the arrastao and other robberies on the bus, as GCL pointed out, the risks are about the same as just walking around in Rio (and cabs occasionally get jacked too!). Anyway,you should always keep an eye out to who is getting ON the bus - and get off the bus if you don't like what you see. Nodifferent from the "spidey sense" you need anywhere else in Rio. No big deal, IMHO.

BS

"How do the buses take payment. It's been decades since I've taken a bus in the states." --Sterling

You must be from L.A., where there are an average of 4.5 cars/SUVs/Hummers per household; where one just can't exist without personal transportation.

You pay the attendant and he will give you change if you don't have the exact amount. I always tell them where I am going and ask to let me off at my street (even if I know where my stop is). This way, I don't miss my stop and I am assured that I am on the right bus. And since Brazilians are a very helpful, it's not just the attendant who's looking out for you but everyone who heard you ask for help.

Exactly - by the way, my biggest secruity precaution wen using the bus is to pay and get thru the turnstile right away. Usually the bus has a section of seats before the turnstile, and the exit is beyond the turnstile (occasionally the turnstile is AT the exit - in which case I just sit or stand as close to it as poissible). The reason why I get beyond the turnstile ASAP is obvious - a quick exit if neccesary. And yes, you can jump the turnstile and jam open the door pretty fast, I've done it.... but only once, bus crimes are relatively rare (well publicized when it happens but there are millions of buses, so law of averages works out in your favour).

For those of you living long-term in Brazil, you know that things are getting out of hand when the police set up roadside checkpoints ("blitz" in brazilian slang) to search buses for criminals. Happened in POA about 2 years ago. That's when you should quit taking the bus for a few weeks till things calm down. Not to scare anyone, but all of BRazil is a calculated risk, why should the bus be any diferent?

Enough about buses already! ;-)


BS

In one week (about three weeks ago), two Muni buses were shot at by high school students in San Francisco. In both cases passengers were hit and injured. If you look at statistics, big cities around the world are really not that far from each other in terms of homicide or crime per 100,000 residents. And usually, these are concentrated in the ghettos; East Oakland in Oakland, East LA in Los Angeles, the Bayview district in San Francisco, the favelas in Rio and Sao Paulo. So, you have nothing to worry about if you avoid these places.

All this bus talk reminds me of a movie(documentary) I saw recently called Bus 174. It was hijacked in a nice area, Jardin Botanico. It was tragic all around and it was there for all of Brazil to see live on tv one afternoon 3 years ago. It shows the incompetence of the authorities and the circumstances which led the hijacker to do it, apparently he was a survivor of the Candelária massacre.