Planning for this trip began on our flight back from Thailand in March; the Pope had enjoyed Thailand and Cambodia despite his best efforts to be miserable and wanted to see what all the fuss was about in Rio. He needed to know why I said in the Soapies of Bangkok “wait until you see the termas of Rio”, why I said in the Go-go bars on walking street “wait until you see the termas of Rio” and why at Nana I said “wait until you see the termas of Rio”. What began as a ten day hop to Rio had expanded to include 5 days in BA, a week in Peru, two days at Iguazzu falls and a week in Rio and ten flights in 17 days.
I used FlySAA.com to book the flight, it was a disaster I had a fraud on my credit card directly related to using the site, they made mistakes issuing the tickets, which they freely admitted where their fault however in true South African Airways fashion they fucked me around for over a month trying to sort it out, eventually I had to threaten legal action and going to the press to get a refund, in reprisal SAA cancelled all our flights without telling us, it was only when the Pope called to get some information that we found out what they had done. With less then three weeks to go I did the bookings again through a travel agent, at about $100.00 cheaper then the website. The whole experience had made a real dent in my enthusiasm for the trip and more then once I thought of canceling, if I was traveling alone I probably would have.
As we headed towards the airport I tried to drum up some enthusiasm for the trip but I couldn’t help but think that we where trying to do too much in to little time.
24 September 2007
The flight on SAA to San Paulo took nine and a half hours. It was uneventful and I was slowly getting into the mood, I have never been to B.A and was looking forward to the food and fun that the city had to offer. We transferred to our TAM flight to B.A and arrived well after dark. As the taxi sped through the dark and almost deserted city I couldn’t get any sense of the town. Our taxi driver didn’t speak any English so we sat in the back of the cab quietly watching the city speed by. The hotel was our first disappointment highly rated on Travel Advisor and supposedly excellently situated. It was little more then a hostel with a long narrow walk up. The night manager tried to put the Pope and me in a single room with one double bed, not exactly what we had arranged. The night manager had no English and it took a wile, even with our written confirmation to get him to give us two rooms, the rooms where small and cell like with cement floors, the basin in the bedroom, no TV, an air-conditioning unit that made a chugging noise when switched on and a myopic bathroom with the shower almost over the toilet and no bathroom door.
I woke the next morning to the sound of someone flushing the toilet some where down the hall, got up and tried to have a shower, the water pressure was abysmal and the water at its hottest was tepid. I headed down stairs where I met the genial owner Yann, a Frenchmen who had relocated to BA a few years earlier. He immediately sized the Pope and me up and gave us the Gay guide to the city very proud of his progressive attitudes. He was very disappointed then I informed him, in no uncertain terms, that he was mistaken, but he never quite believed me. He then informed us that as he had made a mistake with the reservations we would have to move rooms during the course of the day, I was ready to move hotels, but the Pope talked me out of it and we headed out to inspect Palermo, the area of the city we where staying in. Yann had made some recommendations regarding restaurant, bars and places of interest nearby. We where staying out in the sticks, away from the action in a quite residential area peppered with coffee shops and sub par eateries, but thanks to Yann’s “expert” advice it would take us almost two days of wondering around B.A’s SoHo before we realized we where in snoozeville.
Over the next few days we did the tourist things, tango shows, city tours, lots of matte tea and the search for that great Argentinean steak (which I never found). The hotel was not guest friendly(unless you where gay) and the few places in Centro that I stuck my head into didn’t seem worth the effort or price. On the subway on day three of our trip I was pickpocket, they didn’t get away with much except my cell phone which seconds as my PDA, all my trip notes and contact info as well as my web connect was on the thing. Having it stolen didn’t leave me in a great state of mind.
BA is a great metropolitan city but has little that is truly unique, I am glad I visited it but will not be heading back in a hurry.
HOTEL COSTA RICA COSTA RICA 4137/39 PALERMO BA TEL +54 11 4864-7390
Review, simply don’t stay here.
Sunday, 30 September 2007
I was looking forward to getting to Lima after the disappointment of BA, but LAN airways had other plans. We arrived at the airport only to be told that our flight had been delayed for about an hour. As one hour stretch into seven, I had to come to terms with the fact that we had lost one of our two nights in Lima, I wasn’t a happy camper. LAN I was to find out during our travels stood for Late and Nasty, not one of the flights we had booked with them took off on time, but more about that later.
We finally got into Lima early in the morning, after a night of discomfort at the airport and no sleep. The hotel was well situated and had genuine old world charm, the reception staff where almost apologetic and went out of there way to get us on a morning city tour. We headed up to our rooms, they where basic but with all the amenities including a shower with some real heat and water pressure. After a quick bite of breakfast, we headed out on tour. Lima although the city is continuously overcast is a bright city and is what I expected from a South American city. Every city block seemed to have a chef’s school on it. I would have loved the time to visit one or two. We hadn’t eaten since BA so wile on the tour I took a side trip to KFC, the very cute girl behind the counter spoke excellent English and any place where you can by a rounder and a beer is my kind of town. I instantly fell in love with Lima, and was totally frustrated by the fact that we had only one night in the city. After the city tour we went back to the hotel to crash for a few hours. The plan was to head out to Tequila Rock after dinner. We had dinner at Mango’s took a taxi back to the hotel to drop off some shopping and decided to walk up to Tequila Rock which was a nice way to walk off dinner. It was almost midnight and our flight out was 6am the next morning. About two blocks up from the hotel on Av. Jose Largo I saw the cutest, long black haired girl, about 5.4 in black fishnet stockings a leather mini-mini and nice tight red tank top sit demurely under a neon sign, the place was called Pasarela Café, no cover no minimum. So we headed down the stairs, it smelt like my kind of place, dingy with Spanish music playing through the TV, a long u shaped bar about 3 guys and a dozen girls. We sat down ordered two beers, the very do-able bar girl came round and joined the Pope wile the pick of the bunch came over and sat next to me. We sat around drinking, talking and cuddling for about an hour, but when I started talking about heading back to the hotel, I got a blank look, no I was told its not that type of place. WHAT??? I guess that in Lima if it walks like a duck and talks like a duck it’s a…Lemma! It was now after one thirty and there was no point in heading to Tequila Rock as we where being picked up from the hotel in less then three hours. If the Pope is the Pope I was quickly becoming a monk. Our taxi was on time and we headed to the airport. We where flying TACA, and much to our surprise the flight was on time, decent seats and legroom as well as friendly staff, what a difference from LAN. It was a short hop to Cusco
[Lima 4]
LA POSADA DEL MARQUEZ AV 28 DE JUILO 486 MIRAFLORES
Review, The hotel, with its bright red façade, was well situated and had genuine old world charm, the reception staff spoke excellent English and where most helpful and went out of there way to get us on a morning city tour (our plane arrived 9 hours late). The rooms, which are basic and clean, have all the amenities you would expect from a budget hotel including TV, clock radio, a nice size bathroom with a shower with some real heat and water pressure. The breakfasts where very fundamental but OK and the location was on a quite side street a two minute walk from the main street and a pleasant walk from some great restaurants and bars as well as some excellent shopping. I guess you could walk to the ocean but I never tried. I would stay here again
Tuesday, 02 October 2007
Cusco is one of the highest cities in the world coming from Johannesburg, which is about 2000m above sea level I wasn’t expecting any problem, but within a few minutes of arriving I was wheezing like and old man and feeling seriously sea sick. The coca tea and coca leaves helped. We where under pressure to confirm our Train Tickets for the next day, for some reason the ticket office and the train station are at opposite ends of the town, luckily the taxis are cheap. When you are in Cusco you know you are in Inca territory. It feels like the South America you have read about. We did a city tour in the afternoon. Which can be summed up as follows, the Incas had a temple the Spanish ripped it down and built a church onto the next site. It is amazing how little seems to be known about Inca history and culture. We had three guides during our stay and they couldn’t agree about anything. I came away from the Cusco-Machu Picchu experience more confused about the Inca people then when I arrived. The sights are truly all inspiring but an enigma; I came away less then satisfied,
Had dinner at one of the rip-off eateries on town square, in all fairness the food wasn’t bad. Half heartedly tried to
Find some night life without success and headed back to the hotel to get some sleep before our 5am wake up call.
Wednesday, 03 October 2007
PERU RAIL CUSCO/MACHU PICCHU/CUSCO OUT 6.00 RETURN 15.30
The train ride to Machu Picchu took about 4 hours followed by a hair razing bus trip up a mountain pass. Machu pinch is all it is cracked up to be but the tours are a little bit redundant as the guides have theories but no concrete facts about the place. It is undoubtedly worth a visit and the train ride cuts through some of the most scenic, pristine and mountainous countryside I have seen anywhere. On the way back the hostesses on the train did a fashion show, I don’t know why but it had the Pope and me laughing our heads off. We got back to the station in Cusco at about 7.30pm, walked back to the hotel and after a quick SS&S we headed out to the town square, Plaza de Armas, it was hopping with tourists from the four corners of the world and touts of every description preying on them. I was still having problems with the altitude but nowhere nearly as bad as the day before. Our flight out was at 7.55 the next morning and I was feeling the lack of sleep and excessive physical exertion. I needed to get some sleep.
TERRA ANDINA HOTEL CALLE UNION No. 184 CUSCO PERU
On a cobbled side street within a two minute walk to the Peru Rail train station this hotel is top notch, excellent staff and helpful tour organizer this hotel is a pleasure. The rooms are a nice size and clean and tidy with a good hard bed and all the mod cons, except no bar fridge. The bathrooms are Holiday Inn style but the showers have excellent heat and pressure which come in handy when you are trying to cope with the high altitude. In the lobby there is a Coca tea dispenser and as soon as you enter the hotel one of the staff is there with a cup, this tea is a life saver. They also have free internet with a computer that you can use on a first come first serve basis, the connection rate is surprisingly fast. The breakfast was what I had come to expect in Peru, but it is lade on with a little style and a slightly better selection then some of the other hotels I stayed at, they also start breakfast nice and early which is important considering that the first train to Machupicchu leaves at 6am. They also give you a handy simple map of the town, a nice touch. Next time I will stay there again.
[Cusco 4]
Thursday, 04 October 2007
After almost four and a half hours sleep I woke feeling like death warmed up. After breakfast and a quick check out we headed to the airport. The place was packed, after seeing the mob I understood why you had to get to the airport early. TACA was great and the plane took off on time. We had a whole day in Lima, and I was looking forward to seeing more of the city. At the airport our driver was waiting for us with a big welcome sign he had booked us into Hotel el Ejecutivo, which turned out to be a bit of a dump, but we just needed a place to dump our bags and grab a shower. The hotel also had free internet which came in handy. We walked the city until about 4 in the afternoon then headed back to the hotel for a quick nap before going out to dinner. I was asleep before my head hit the pillow. I guess the lack of sleep had finally caught up with the Pope. At about 11pm we where woken by the phone. Our driver was there to take us to the airport. We had slept our last night in Lima away.
[Lima 6]
We arrived at the airport with time to spare and headed to the LAN desk after being messed around till after midnight we were told that I flight would only be leaving the next morning. The Pope had a mental meltdown, we would now only have one day in Iguaçu. After he was finished explaining in no uncertain terms that it was totally unacceptable, the girl behind the counter looked at him dolefully and said no problem we will change your connecting flight to LAN! At least this time they put us up at the hotel, it was at the airport walking distance from the check in. As we shuffled along the Pope kept muttering “No problem, no problem with LAN”. By the time we checked in it was too late to head back into town. I was up at five in the morning, I was convinced that something else would go wrong and yes our flight was delayed by another hour. We had to change airports in BA the trip from one airport to the other took about 50 minutes. In Lima LAN had not issued us with new tickets just a code written on the back of our ticket, with everything else that was going on I forgot to ask what time our new flight left BA and got into Iguaçu. We checked in with time to spare, the Pope was not a happy camper with our new flight, we would arrive well after dark, and yes the plane did take off late. We arrived at the hotel at about 11.30 the hotel was about a 15 minute ride from the airport. I grabbed a quick bite from the buffet and headed off to bed. The next day was going to be a high pressure day, we where going to try and squeeze two days of touring into one.
Iguaçu falls are amazing, you only need two days to see them properly and from both sides but even with the stress of having to do two days of touring into ten hours it was well worth wile. It is true to say that Argentina has the falls but Brazil has the views (and Paraguay the shopping, which I never got to see). I have visited both the Victoria Falls and the Niagara Falls and neither holds a candle to the beauty and majesty of Iguaçu.
The trip so far and been an amazing mix of highs and lows, unexpected problems and unpredicted rewards. It had been a true experience. We had walked some of the highlights of South America and I had the blisters to prove it, but as we rushed to catch out flight to Rio the thought that kept crossing my mind was…finally, finally the holiday part of the trip could begin. I had been a very good boy for the past two weeks now it was onto Rio and some real fun.
HOTEL CATARATAS RUTA 12 KM 4, PUERTO IGUAZU 3370 ARGENTINA
Nice, clean hotel. Better then average Breakfast, well located, near to the bus stop a little pricy and at the price you would expect the staff to speak a little better English. The rooms where clean and spacious and the bathrooms well appointed with a good shower. The dinner buffet open until after midnight which came in handy.
Saturday, 06 October 2007
WE flew Tam to Rio, so there was no problem with the flight, I didn’t know that Rio has three airports, so I was a bit surprised when we arrived. Verna from Rio apartments was waiting for us and after her problems with her cell phone where sorted out she called for her driver. The drive was a little shorter then the one from GIG and at night I was a little confused by the drive in. The apartment, if a little run down, was great about 200m in size with a great view of Copa. After a quick SS& S we headed to Alcazar, about four blocks up the beach away. The moment we started walking I was pleasantly surprised, no beggars Atlantica was clear of the usual riff raff that gravitates to the avenue after dark and there was a strong police presents. We met up with Bluelight and Happyboy at alcazar for a quick bite. The food at Alcazar is better then most mongers give it credit for. After dinner we headed to help. We walked through the Copa flea market and sat outside help until about 3am. After my last experience with help girls I was not that eager to take one back to the flat, as I had not yet locked all my stuff away, but help is always fun and there was more then one worthwhile girl plying her trade. Bluelight brought us up to date with who is who in the zoo. While sitting in a Terma a few days later I would hear Help referred to as the place where the scum of America goes to meet the scum of Rio. I feel this is blatantly untrue Help is the place where the scum of the world goes to meet the scum of Rio.
On Sunday we met up with Bluelight and headed off to the Hippy market to kill a few hours and buy a few gifts after a few hours of playing tourist we headed to Garota de Ipanema restaurant on Rua Viniciusae Moraes where the song the Girl of Ipanema was supposedly written, its not bad if a little expensive. In the evening we headed to Maracana stadium to watch a little soccer the result was Flamengo 0-2 Fluminense a score that most of the 76313 strong crowed where not happy with. The Pope was happy though on entering the stadium had decided to root for Fluminense, it was of no importance, considering that neither of us knows anything about Brazilian soccer or for that matter about soccer in general.
After the game we headed to the Marriott to catch an American Football game with Bluelight and Happyboy I was surprised that none of the American contingent where there to enjoy the USA’s national pastime. Yes I know that Football is not the national pastime of the USA, I was referring to drinking beer and eating Buffalo wings.
Monday
Some of you might be wondering why I had not taken the Pope to a Terma yet, after all we had already been in Rio for two nights and getting to a terma was a high priority for me. The problem was that the Pope if he doesn’t enjoy something will never, ever give it a second chance, so although I knew I would enjoy any of the termas opened on the week end I wanted the popes first trip to a terma to be to 4X4, better safe then sorry. So I woke on Monday with a great sense of expectation Today as soon as it opened we where heading to a little piece of Heaven but before that we where hooking up with Bluelights and his wm and getting some of the tourist things out of the way. Bluelight really wanted to eat at his favorite restaurant so we took the bus down to the bottom of Leme, the whole way down he spoke up this place, the best steak sandwich in Rio after getting off the bus we walked around for a wile, but when we finally found this tavern of culinary delights it was closed. Oops today is Monday, so we headed around the corner to a mediocre, cheap, per Kilo place on Copa av. before taking a taxi up Sugar Loaf. Sugar loaf never fails to impress and a trip on the cable cars is always an experience and a reminder that what we experience in Rio is just a fraction of what the city has to offer. By the time we got down my mind was firmly focused on 4X4 we walked a short distance away from the touts at the bottom of Sugar Loaf before hailing a taxi much to our horror none of the first few cab drivers new the way to the Terma, after much calling back and forward and calls to dispatch. A driver took us to 4x4 once again all it took was entering the den of iniquity to break the curse of the Pope. Up to this time the Pope really wasn’t getting what I saw in Rio, every time I mentioned the Termas the Popes face use to sour. He couldn’t understand who I could intend spending every available moment in these places instead of all, the wonderful, touristy thing that Rio supposedly has to offer. He was also paranoid about the crime in Rio and couldn’t understand how I could trust a locker in a bordello with my most vital belongings. He was also concerned about the expense. All these apprehensions and disquieting thoughts had occupied his mind for months and as he changed into a Terma gown for the first time, he was about 3 minutes from never worrying about any of that crap ever again. As he entered the bar, full of scantily clad magnificent female flesh, it was like he had a revelation, an epiphany of Olympian proportions. What had begun in Thailand so many months ago was now complete. The Pope had become a pig. He was a fully fledged sex touristing, mongering animal. Within a few minutes he had his tongue down the throat of a real beauty. I was chatting away in broken English and non existent Portuguese with a very cute blond.
Photos: 4x4 Blond 01 02 03 04
I headed up to a room after about half an hour. It had been a long dry season and she was a cool glass of water. It was a fun hour, all I had come to expect from a Terma girl but not earth shattering, When I headed back to the bar the Pope was already there ogling a very cute blond. We sat there for a wile chatting I don’t think I had seen him this happy in a long time. He made a comment about how the blond would be his first choice tomorrow. The poor boy still didn’t get it, never put off to tomorrow a girl you can do today, so I waved her over and told her that my shy friend really liked her within two minutes her and the Pope where doing the tonsillectomy two step. I was quite happy to sit around and watch the place full up. The Pope reappeared and we headed back to the apartment before meeting up with a group of fellow mongers and CH members at Help. I spotted a red head that I instantly fell in lust with, but I couldn’t catch her eye, and every time I saw her she was deep in negotiations I thought that she had done a deal, but at about three I saw her head off by herself I cursed my bad luck. We arranged to meet up with the guys for a city tour the next afternoon, and I headed home alone. We walked from help back to the apartment not a kid in sight and a cop car on every corner I felt almost safe, and the Pope was wondering what all the safety warnings where about. I had to remind him that the last time I was in Rio Av. Atlantica was a very different place after dark.
Tuesday
At about 12 headed up to Ken to drop of some gifts for him and Don. As I walked towards their shop I saw a guy sitting on a chair outside in a salmon pink polo shirt it just had to be Jag. We chatted for a few minutes as he was in a hurry, but we arranged to meet later at the restaurant next to help for a bite of dinner. You know you’re in Rio when you make 2am dinner plans.
We had arranged to meet at alcazar at 2pm for the tour. The tour guide turned up on time and the ten of us dutifully piled into the bus for what would turn out to be a lack luster tour, but we did hit the highlights including good old Christo.
After the tour and we headed back to the apartment before meeting up with a group of fellow mongers and CH members at Marius for dinner. I can’t help but feel that this restaurant has become way to pricy and the quality has suffered after dinner I wanted to head to Monte Carlo but I could not find the place so we landed up at L’oumo. The selection was small but there where some fine looking girls, I think L’oumo was the Terma that the Pope liked least, but we each found a girl that we liked. I remembered my first trip to L’oumo when I had Ken show me around, now I felt like an old pro, until I got lost on my way back from the rooms that is.
Photos: L'oumo 05 06 07
After L’oumo
Wednesday
Went to Barra to show the Pope the “new” Rio walk around a bit then headed to the Barra Grill for a late lunch or very late breakfast the meat and buffet was excellent. The place is classy, not too expensive with great service but lacks atmosphere. After lunch the pope was like a man with a mission we headed to 65 by this time the Pope felt like an old pro at the Terma thing I was spoilt for choice the place wasn’t exactly crowded but there were some really nice ladies around and I had fun making a selection. I chose a little lady with shoulder length black hair and a great attitude at the bar and in the bedroom I was in for a surprise after we finished our first bump and grind, which was definitely as advertised she pulled out a dildo and started playing with herself, this was a first for me as I have never been particularly into toys but the sight of her indulged in some self abuse and obviously loving it was one hell of a rush. I was up and ready to party in record time. I was very thankful that a woman has three orifices. She kept on playing with her toy and I had two holes to work with, I just love Rio. After a totally satisfying session I headed back to the Bar and chilled for a wile after a few hours the Pope headed off to do his own thing and I went off to meet Jag. I arrived at the restaurant next to help to find Jag presiding over a table of fellow CH members and a scattering of girls, including the current love of Jag’s life. Jag was in his element holding court and telling stories from behind a large Cuban cigar. Life was good laughing and joking, trading stories with a bunch of people that share the same desire to live life to the full. The evening passed to quickly and I was saddened when Jag got up to go as he was leaving for the States the next day. The party broke up about half an hour later and I walked dejectedly back to the apartment.
Photos: Terma 65 08 09
Thursday
I was back into Rio mode waking up late doing as little as possible and saving my strength for the evenings we headed to Solarium in the late afternoon and with all the bad press its been getting lately on the sight I was pleasantly surprised after an afternoon and evening of sessioning and drinking he headed off to help to wile away the evening until about 3am
Photos: Solarium 10 11
Friday
As had become a morning ritual I headed up to Ken’s office to see who was around it was already late in the day and Ken was heading to L’oumo so with nothing better to do we joined him. L’oumo which had had been my favorite terma last trip was a little disappointing this time I still found an entertaining cutie, the girls just sat around while last time they danced up a storm. Although she was far from disinterested something was missing maybe a little vibe or energy. The session in the room was a great though and I was already feeling the pressure of our imminent departure. Although I wad planned not to do any all nighters I decided to treat myself to a help girl. Bluelight and I had already planned on heading to Porca`o for dinner. The Pope had already eaten at the buffet at L’oumo so he decided not to join us. The food at Porca`o was great as usual and even at night the view is impressive. It was my last night in Rio and the meal at Porca`o was the perfect way to start a final night, then it was on to help where Bluelight met up with one of his regulars he had asked her to bring two friend for me and the Pope but she could only rustle up one which was fine with me I wanted my redhead, luckily the Pope hit off with her. After a wile I saw my red head and I delegated the task of reeling her in to the Popes girl, off she ran and five minutes later returned with Red. Red couldn’t speak a word of English but I was really ok with that, I couldn’t think of anything that she would want to say that I would want to hear, in the course of an intellectual conversation of course. We sat around drinking and chatting, drawing out our last night in paradise. Bluelight was the first to head off we said our goodbyes and the Pope and the Blond and Red and I sat around for a little longer before walking back to the apartment. Red was hungry and wanted to stop at Bobbie’s for a burger, that place is even worse then Mc Donald’s, so she grabbed some take away and we headed back. There is something very cutie and sexy about watching a girl trying to eat greasy fast food in a dainty ladylike way. She was really cute but tried hard but help girls just don’t live up to the standard of the terma ladies. She was OK I thought she would stick around but she wanted to leave after just a few hours so we had a goodbye session that was a little lackluster. I think she was in a hurry to get out of there.
Photos: Red 12 13 14 15
Saturday, 13 October 2007
After Red left I sat in the lounge and watched the sun come up. The pope was still having fun so I went for a walk along the beach and said my goodbyes to the city. Then I headed back at about 12 the Pope was just saying his goodbyes. We chilled for a wile and packed until Roberto came to fetch us.
We headed to Monte Carlo at about 2pm knowing that we had to leave there at about six to catch our flight all our cases where backed and in the back of Roberto’s taxi. By this time all the Pope wanted was a girl who spoke English, the kinky bugger. Personally I have never understood a woman no matter which language she speaks. As we headed into the bar we discovered that we where the only two guys in the place, there where about a dozen girls in the place, a few came over but none to my taste I eventually walked over to one of the girls lounging on the couch she just seemed like fun and my pictures do not do her justice. The girl sitting next to her was just what the Pope needed, and her English was the best in the place so I called him over and they hit it off. My girl was from SP and was one of those bubbly types that bounces around the room. She had an Italian look which I kind of liked. The fun and naught type although she wasn’t the best looking girl in the place her whole attitude promised a great time in the bedroom and I wasn’t disappointed. The hour I spent with her was a great way to say goodbye to Rio after I finished I headed down for a steam and a shower. The depressing time was fast approaching when we would have to leave for the airport and the Pope was nowhere to be seen about twenty minutes after we where supposed to leave for the airport he wondered down with a big smile on his face, he had undoubtedly had a great time. He was hooked on Rio and on the way to the airport was already making plans and calculations for our next trip to South America.
Photos: Monte Carlo 16 17 18
The plane ride to SP was uneventful and we where both basking in the after glow of a great trip and didn’t talk much. When we got to SP the wheels fell off. The airport was packed and our luggage was not booked through to the SAA flight home. Tam called ahead to SAA to hold the flight but when we and about 20 others who where on the SAA flight arrived at SAA check in the counter was closed. After over an hour Tam airlines took responsibility, although SAA was 100% to blame for the fuck up, and arranged meals, hotels and transfers for us. Although I was pissed off as hell with SAA’s attitude I was happy for the opportunity to see a little of SP on the airlines dime. The hotel at the airport was ok for an airport hotel.
Sunday 14 October.
We took a taxi into the city and did a quick walk around, it was Sunday and there where quite a few flea markets, and I love a good flea market. And the time went quickly. We also decided to take the subway so we could get an instant stop by stop taste for the city in a very short time, I would like to see more of SP maybe next trip. We left the city at about 2.30 to pick up our bags and make our transfer back to the airport. The flight back to South Africa was uneventful with the airline staff having the same shitty attitude that I have come to expect from SAA.
Conclusion
After I “lost” my cell I made a few written notes on the trip at the end of visiting each city here they are.
BA Nice town the Paris of South America, food very disappointing, thatch out for dog shit its everywhere, some nice areas Centro Ricoteta and Bocha. Great antique market on Sundays. Buses and Subways clean safe and cheap. Very helpful and friendly people but not much English spoken. Great coffee.
Lima was a very flat but colorful city, great shopping for cloths, good food best so far, Mira flora the place to stay. By far the best English I have uncounted in SA so far.. The city feels South America and a bit like a frontier town.
Cuscu Large slums surround the city which is dusty and full of tourists it has a lot of local color and like Lima feels South American take a day to acclimatize and a day or two to see the city before heading to Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu lives up to the hype but with the lack of any concrete information about the Inca culture you leave the place feeling a little cheated and unsatisfied. The countryside surrounding MP is magnificent and hiking the area seems very worth wile.
Iguaçu exceeded my expectations a must see but two days would be enough time.
As for Rio, hell Rio remains Rio.
By the way the reason that this trip report might seem a little rushed towards the end is that I leave for LOS in about 5 hours,. The best way to get over the Post Rio blues just might be a trip to Thailand, I will get back to you on that.
To be continued…
.