Visa Invitation
The first hurdle to overcome to obtain a Russian visa is getting a visa invitation. I ordered mine from the following website:
http://www.expresstorussia.com
After paying 25 USD, I received the invitation letter by e-mail (PDF format) the next day.
BTW, my current Internet security software (Russian Kaspersky!) warns me about a Trojan when I click on “Order Visa Invitation”. I didn’t experience any problem when I ordered the letter. But that was months ago, on a different PC with Norton Internet Security installed.
Russian Embassy
I took the train to the Russian consulate in Ukkel. As I approached the right house number, I saw people queuing up... outside... in the rain. Great!
Once inside, they X-rayed my briefcase. After that, I joined another queue... to meet the cutest of Russian girls. She spoke French and English, but seemed as cold as a Siberian winter. But she did accept my application, even though I had no business going to the embassy in Brussels. Based on where I live, I should have gone to the consulate in Antwerp.
Anyway, after coughing up 35 EUR, I was outta there with the prized yellow ticket. A few days later, I joined the queue again to exchange the ticket for my passport… embellished by a Russian visa. Luckily, it wasn’t raining that day.
Miscellaneous
The visa application form can be downloaded from the Internet. There is a separate form for US citizens.
You must know your exact entry and exit dates before applying for a visa. Once the visa has been issued, those dates cannot be changed.
One of the requirements to obtain a Russian visa is travel insurance valid in Russia.
Getting There
Eurolines
I took the Eurolines bus from Tallinn to St. Petersburg. I called the Eurolines office in Tallinn to make a reservation the day before. The girl on the phone spoke perfect English and informed me that the schedule on their Internet site was outdated:
http://www.eurolines.ee/?id=1247&lang=en
The bus left at 10.15 AM and arrived at 6.45 PM - 7h 30m travel time. The fare was 320 EEK. The bus made many short stops along the way, but never stopped long enough for us to have lunch.
At the Russian border, a woman came onto the bus, collected our passports and returned them a few minutes later. We had to take our luggage to get our passports stamped and go through customs, where our luggage was X-rayed.
Transfer from Bus Station
I’d booked a transfer with Oksana Apartments (15 EUR). They consulted the Eurolines website to find out which bus station I would be arriving at (final stop). The website was wrong and the taxi was waiting at the wrong bus station.
When Elena (from Oksana Apartments) couldn’t find another taxi at short notice, she finally picked me up herself.
Accommodation
Chaikovskogo 69
After checking out various apartment sites, this seemed like the perfect place for porn shoots:
http://www.oksanas.net/St_Petersburg_1br_Flats/Tchaik69/T69.asp
When I discovered the same apartment on the Lana Escort site, I figured it would be cool for a monger to rent an apartment from an escort site.
http://www.lanaescort.com/apartment.htm
I e-mailed Lana. She replied a few days later and confirmed my reservation (95 EUR/day). The day before I was scheduled to arrive in St. Petersburg, an SMS from Lana announced that my reservation had been canceled. Another apartment was available… for 140 EUR/day. It won’t surprise you that my reply included the words “Fuck Off” and “Bitch”.
Oksana Apartments
Securing alternative accommodation at the last minute wasn’t easy. This huge 1 bedroom apartment from Oksana Apartments was available:
http://oksanas.net/St_Petersburg_1br_Flats/N64-1/N64-1.asp
I was staying for 8 days, but the apartment was only available for 7 days. Oksana insisted on charging 130 EUR (price for 1-7 days). I was only willing to pay 120 EUR (price for 8-14 days). When I threatened to make reservations with a different rental agency, Oksana finally caved in.
The first night, I stayed in this gorgeous studio apartment (95 EUR):
http://oksanas.net/studio_apartments/N64-7/N64-7.asp
The location was perfect. Both apartments were magnificent. Cleaning service was included, but the maid often knocked on the door at inopportune times.
- Oksana Apartments charges 20 EUR to register your visa.
- Fast Wireless Internet was available in both apartments. I paid 20 EUR for 8 days.
SIM Card
I bought a Russian SIM card (MTS Russia) for 180 RUB while waiting for the taxi at the bus station. That was the easy part.
Topping up my card proved a lot more difficult. You need to send an SMS to recharge your card, which won’t work if your balance is down to zero. They finally managed to get the job done, but you shouldn’t wait until you run out of money before recharging your card.
ATM Machines
On Nevsky, I noticed few ATM machines along the street. But there were ATM machines inside the entrance of every shopping mall. Of course, they’re closed at night! They accept foreign debit and credit cards. Some only give out local currency. Others dispense USD as well.
McDonald’s
The McDonald’s close to my apartment on Nevsky was hugely popular. At night or on weekends, when there is little personnel, you may have to queue up for 30-60 minutes before getting served!
The locals come in groups. One of them stakes out a table. The others join the different queues. The one who gets to the front of the queue first orders for everyone. The Russian system!
Russian McDonald’s don’t have menus. Weird!
Nevsky Traffic
One day, as I walked out of my apartment, there were 2 bodies lying in the middle of the street. One of them was already dead. They were trying to reanimate the second victim. To no avail…
This is a common occurrence in St. Petersburg. Only cross a busy street at a zebra crossing. Only cross when the light is green. Even then, watch out! Russians drive like madmen and some guys actually enjoy running people over!
Loso