Archive 01

ClubHombre.com: Tijuana: Questions/Commentary/Advice: La Vida Loca -Livin' in TJ: Archive 01
By Reytj on Thursday, February 08, 2001 - 08:59 pm:  Edit

This was a thread on Redsnake and I think it could be useful here.

By Diego1 on Friday, February 09, 2001 - 07:24 am:  Edit

OK King -

I live in town - and have done so for the past three years now. My experiences have been mainly positive. Prices are good, neighbors are friendly, and it is convenient. My biggest complaint is going back and forth on my quest for the almighty dollar. The wait at la linia is almost always a pain. I have figured out the best times and the best lanes to use, and this minimizes the problem, plus I don't have to stick to a strict time schedule on the other side. I rent a nice house with a fenced in driveway and have good services available. Speaking spanish and knowing whose palm to grease helps or is almost a requirement. Although, I must say that when I started this cycle, my spanish was at the 2nd grade level, ¡ pero, ahora, no! Everything is in my name, and I even mail my rent check in.

Do you have any specific questions?

Diego-diego

By The Senator on Friday, February 09, 2001 - 10:40 am:  Edit

I'm sure everyone would like to hear tips on how to find housing, how to get utilities connected, and any other gotchas we gringos haven't considered.

The Senator

By La_Dulce_Vida on Friday, February 09, 2001 - 01:50 pm:  Edit

Diego1,

What's the fastest, most reliable Internet connections available to TJ residences? Any Cable, DSL?

By Reytj on Friday, February 09, 2001 - 06:43 pm:  Edit

Diego writes "I have figured out the best times and the best lanes to use, and this minimizes the problem,"

Do tell-por favor!

By Diego1 on Saturday, February 10, 2001 - 09:49 pm:  Edit

OK - lots of questions.

Finding housing:

If you are really serious about finding housing in Tijuana, there are many real estate agents on both sides of the border that make their business off of ex-patriots. There is a huge, and I do mean huge number of gringos living here in Tijuana!!! If you don't believe me, just look at all the idiots trying to get across the border in the morning! But having said that - the best way to find a place to live is word of mouth. When I made the descision to move down here I first got a small, cold water apartment for $120.00 a month in Colonia Rubi. Then I put the word out to friends, old and new, that I was looking for a place, and my requirements. I looked at Playa Tijuana, and almost moved there, but finally got a nice house in Colonia Hidalgo. I have a three bedroom, two story house with a high fenced in driveway for $420.00 a month. My landlord lives in Chula Vista and I mail her the rent. She owns about five places (maybe more) and comes down to visit often. She has become a friend and I can and do, do anything to the place that I want, paint, build shelves, out-buildings, extra security, etc. I have the only keys, I pay the water and electric, and get bottled gas every couple of months for the stove and heat every so often. Bottled water is also delivered when needed and is cheap. Nobody drinks tap-water!

Getting Utilities Connected:

This was no problem with me as they were already connected. The problem was getting it in my name. Many forms and a few low key bribes and on one case I took a guy drinking in the zone. But now everything is in my name and notices are stuck in the mailbox.

Water:

Again CESP hasn't been a problem, except the few days last march when they shut the water off to our entire block, and nobody knew why. Went down to the local CESP office, and complained and asked neighbors to do the same, and after a week or so, the water came back on. With never any explanation as to what happened??

Electric:

This too is easy, and I pay my bill in the machine in front of the local office with new pesos, and have never had to see a clerk. I have also pre-paid by check by mail, before I went on a trip once.

Fastest Lanes at the border:

By far, always stay to the right! Either by coming off the so-called express way, or by arranging to have two other people with you. The speed pass isn't worth it as there is always just too much traffic to make it worth while during rush times! The morning rush starts about 6AM and goes till about 10 AM. There always seems to be a nice break around 11 AM with little wait. Evening rush starts around 3:30 PM and goes up till about 6 PM, with all bets off on week-ends and holidays. When the choice is yours, the best time to go across is MOnday late afternoon and after ten at night, and go in the HOV lanes. Get a big old clunker car and don't let anybody intimidate you and speed up on the left and then cross over the lanes to the faster ones on the right, when you are really pressed for time. Of course this really wins friends!

Fastest Internet Connection:

So far the best connection that I have found is still with a dial up connection, but I still keep a place in San Diego with DSL for business. I currently pay about $40.00 a month through http://televinet.com.mx for high speed dial-up. This works well, if a little slow for checking e-mail, etc. Cable connection is available in Mexico City and is said to come to Tijuana in the year 2000. Guess what, it's already 2001 and not here yet. I do have cable TV tied into the house on a twisted pair, and get more channels than I ever watch.

More questions?

Diego-diego

By Explorer8939 on Saturday, February 10, 2001 - 10:54 pm:  Edit

The technique I used for finding a place in TJ was to have a chica split the rent with me, and I have her the responsibility of finding the place.

By La_Dulce_Vida on Sunday, February 11, 2001 - 12:05 am:  Edit

Diego

Thanks for the answers. I need a broadband connection at home to make $$$, sounds like it's coming soon to TJ. I wonder what the Internet Cafes are using. T1s?? At that cheap rent I might be able to afford a fractional T1.

Have you noticed the drive thru US immigration guys hassling you more lately? I have.

By Reytj on Sunday, February 11, 2001 - 12:57 am:  Edit

Diego writes "Cable connection is available in Mexico City and is said to come to Tijuana in the year 2000. Guess what, it's already 2001 and not here yet."

I don't know when it arrived but cable internet is available in Tijuas.

http://www.cablemas.com.mx/cablered/caracte001.htm

By Salsa_Boy on Sunday, February 11, 2001 - 04:30 pm:  Edit

Wow...great info Diego1.
Looking forward to moving to Southern Cal and may be even TJ.
Thanks, SB

By Diego1 on Sunday, February 11, 2001 - 08:15 pm:  Edit

Reytj - Great news! and from the website, it looks like I am in the areas served!!! Going to check it out tomorrow!!! Thanks for the heads up!!!

La Dulce Vida - Have been to a few Internet Cafes but only asked about the connection at one. He said he had a T-1 and it was cheap (for him) T-1 is still out of the question for most on both sides of the border. As to the border guys hassling more - I have seen quite the reverse, with as many times as I go back and forth, I even run into faces I recognize and I always, always, act nice and shoot the shit with these guys. Seems like I'm getting hassled less!

Diego-diego

By La_Dulce_Vida on Sunday, February 11, 2001 - 08:44 pm:  Edit

diego1

Breezed thru the border this evening, HOV lane, eventho I was solo, off hours, and no hassles by the inspector. Got asked a lot of questions twice last week, maybe they were looking for someone special.

I love TJ, got there a bit early and checked out the pool hall one block south of Coahilla on Constitution, upstairs. $1 beers, full size tables for $1.50 / hour. Didn't play, it was crowded, just had a couple beers, besides I didn't want to get my thumbs broken and I had a sweetheart lined up at AB. :-)

9 ball anybody?

By Ritmo on Sunday, February 11, 2001 - 10:15 pm:  Edit

Hey Brother D. (and other brothers w/knowledge),
Are leases an issue? That is, when you took either of the places you've lived, did you sign a lease w/a minimum tenancy period? I'm looking to do some travelling over the summer, and may just hang my hat for a month or two in SD or TJ, if I can find affordable *short-term* housing.

Thanks and props to all ya'll TJ-living large players!
R.

By Diego1 on Monday, February 12, 2001 - 10:17 am:  Edit

Ritmo -

Leases are not a problem, language is. Making sure that you understand each other is the most important thing! I have NO long term obligations! When I moved in, she asked for first and last months rent as is pretty common up north, and she said we would sign a lease later on. But that never happened! In fact, I don't have a lease! This, of course, is good and bad. The relationship of trust is between me and my landlord. I could leave tommorrow, and have seen other people move out in the middle of the night. But when she knew that I had a business north of the border, she seemed to lose interest in paperwork. I think she is just happy to have dependable money coming in and doesn't have to worry about vandalism with me here. As I said, she visits every once in awhile, but now it is more as a friend than as a landlord. My experiences have been good and as they say YMMV! But short term housing is not difficult to find here. ¿The live-in entertainment? That's another question! In your case, I would opt for an apartment way before un hotel. Get your significant other to work with you. ¿Don't have one? ¡Buscala!

Diego-diego

By Powerslave666 on Monday, February 12, 2001 - 02:33 pm:  Edit

Someone above mentioned putting utilities in your name. Why bother. I always leave them in the owners name. At the Powerslave Palace, the only things in my name are the telephone and the cable tv.

By Cf on Wednesday, February 14, 2001 - 12:10 pm:  Edit

But... it is good to have at least one bill in your name to serve as proof of residence for renting videos etc. Or just rent them in the US.

NEVER disconnect your phone, it can take months to reconnect. If it is in the owners name (as mine is), leave it there. Phone lines are a scarce commodity in many parts of Tijuana.

By Reytj on Saturday, February 24, 2001 - 02:10 pm:  Edit

Since I started this thread I can't bear to see it die out so for those of you who are wondering about telephone service in Tijuana the following may be of interest.

I got hooked up in November. Installation was $870 pesos and I had to wait two weeks. I don't have my bill handy but if memory serves me monthly service which includes 100 free local calls is about $160 pesos. Additional calls are about 17 centavos each.

By Oldie on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 06:26 am:  Edit

Reytj,

I'm about to rent a room from an acquaintence near the zona. Should I be wary of legalitie such as leases, receipts, etc? Or just accept a key and be happy? Thanks.

By 694me on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 07:59 am:  Edit

Expensive phones. Why not use a US cell phone with 1700 free minutes? There have been posts on this so many writers have tried it out.

By Explorer8939 on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 09:48 am:  Edit

Because some US cell phones don't work in many places in TJ. My Sprint PCS phone craps out in the ZN in certain places.

By Gitano on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 11:31 am:  Edit

I thought that for frequent Baja visitors Nextel cellular was the way to go. My ATT wireless service is problematic, but I don't spend enough time in the Baja to warrant changing it. I'm pretty happy with the international rates from the US. I was wondering why Reytj didn't use Nextel myself. I buy the $100 peso cards and use these in TJ. They work pretty well. Supposedly, my wireless should work well for incoming in TJ, but I usually turn it off.

By Curious on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 12:12 pm:  Edit

Nextel is the way to go. Works well all over TJ, and points South to Ensenada. Picks up US cell sites, so there are no roaming charges and no long distance/international charges.

Get two (or more, for some of you guys) on the business/family plan and give one to your chica. They often run deals where on this plan you get cell to cell minutes for free or at very low cost - and during these promos the second phone is free.

The only downsides to Nextel are they have a somewhat higher monthly rate than many plans, and they are oriented towards businesses, so they DO run a credit check.

By Gitano on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 06:03 pm:  Edit

Interesting Curious,

I do some international calling from the states with my cell phone as well as some US long distance. Do you know if Nextel has the "It's 1 Country" system like ATT. I pay no long distance charges. Also I would assume that Nextel has an international plan similar to ATT. Also, one last paranoid thought. Can I put a limit on this phone I potentially gift to fav. I would guess not.

By Reytj on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 07:11 pm:  Edit

I opted for conventional phone service for the following reasons.

1) I wanted dial up internet access.

2) I wanted chicas-I don't have a favorita-to be able to call me at minimum expense. Calling a regular phone from a pay phone costs 1 peso a minute.

3) I will be applying for the Sentri program-commuter lane for crossing the border-and one of the requirements is a utility bill in your name.

By Reytj on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 07:14 pm:  Edit

Oldie

Just renting a room-as opposed to an apartment-doen't typically involve entering into any written agreement. Actually I didn't even have to sign a lease or a contract for the apartment where I'm living now

By Avltourist on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 04:29 pm:  Edit

I know that possession of a firearm in T.J. can cause one serious problems. I am considering moving to T.J. and would like to know what the law is on possessing a handgun in one's home for protection. Is this possible. If not, I will not even consider T.J. any further as a place to live. I won't live anywhere that I can't protect myself and my home.

By Hippie on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 07:50 pm:  Edit

Avltourist, you might as well start looking somewhere else. There may be someone here who knows the details better than I do, but my understanding is you can only own a gun (not just a handgun) if you are in law enforcement, or very well connected politically. Even the Auxiliary Police are not allowed to own them. There are exceptions for hunting trips, but that would not help you. The penalty is very severe if you are caught, so do not risk it. In the U.S., if you shoot someone in self-defense with an illegal firearm, you will almost never get more than a slap on the wrist. They may not even confiscate the weapon. In Mexico, it is a different story. I know a girl in TJ who attempted to shoot her husband with a shotgun, after years of infidelity and abuse. She did not know how to disengage the safety, and he took the gun away from her and called the police. She served two days and paid a $1000 fine. For owning the weapon, he served 57 days, lost the shotgun, and paid a $2000 fine, plus more than that for a lawyer. Had he not been a Mexican national with some minor family connections, he would probably have served around 5 years, unless he could have come up with some pretty serious cash after entering prison.

By Curious on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 09:59 pm:  Edit

Possession of a handgun is considered a serious offense. Heck, possession of "military type" AMMO is considered serious - there are Americans in Mexican prisons serving 10 year sentences for having a few 9mm cartridges in their vehicle!

Pretty much anything above a .22 is considered a military weapon, and that makes it a Federal crime of some seriousness.

The horror stories are pretty bad. If you really feel you need a firearm for defense, then forget Mexico.

By Curious on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 10:11 pm:  Edit

As far as Nextel is concerned, I can't answer all your questions. Like all phone companies they change their plans almost from month to month.

I suggest going to someplace that sells them and asking. They have a LOT of plans and a lot of options.

Nextel is somewhat different in that they have a cell to cell ("radio") function. This allows people within the same "company" to talk to each other. Often this can be gotten for free, or for very low cost.

They used to have no long distance charges as an option on some plans. International to Mexico was not cheap - over a dollar a minute, as I recall.

But realize my MAIN recomendation for Nextel is that in TJ it will use U.S. cell sites - just like you were in San Diego, so there will be NO International charges.

If you are worried about coverage, go to a dealer and explain that you are afraid their coverage may not work everywhere you need it to. They should be willing to give you a refund if it doesn't work. (I wouldn't mention Mexico, specifically. But maybe you have to travel across the desert to Arizona a lot, or??)

By Amous on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 10:37 pm:  Edit

I feel this is a good law. If I would have used a weapon in the US every time I felt I needed to seriously defend myself, there'd been at least 100 people shot. One should learn how to take a bit of risk- because life is a risk, we could do without so much paranoia. Amous

By WasabiMas on Sunday, March 04, 2001 - 06:30 pm:  Edit

Esprint works well from my room at 'our'hotel, without a roaming charge. It works well in Otay and on 'Vampire Hill.' I'll need a prepaid plan, farther south.

By Cf on Monday, March 05, 2001 - 07:10 am:  Edit

RE: Nextel, you can get a refund on the phones at most locations BUT Nextel requires a 12 month service contract to activate the phones. If you cancel the contract, you will lose a $250 deposit. I actually bought the phones on the salespersons word that no contract was required, lying bitch. Returned the phones for now.

If anyone has Nextel service and happens to have a chance to try them in the South part of Playas de Tijuana, please post how well they work. Muchas Gracias.

By WasabiMas on Tuesday, March 06, 2001 - 10:23 am:  Edit

CF- I live in Las Playas Sur and have poor coverage with Esprint. My old analog phone seemed to work off of coverage from Point Loma on calm days.

Unfor-tuna-tely,with my current plan, when I call the babes across the street, it's billed as an international call. This means that I must get up off the couch and haul my fat stinking cheap ass over there to save a buck or two.

Fuck, I should just yell out the damn window. "Hey, what time you goin' to work today? Bring me over some cigars and a forty ouncer, before you go. Got any coffee? I'm kinda' horny today -you wanna get over here and blow me?"

By Cf on Wednesday, March 07, 2001 - 12:48 pm:  Edit

Thank you for the Sprint info, I canceled them 6 months ago because of their poor coverage. Still would like info on Nextel though..

WasabiMas: E-mail me Capn_Flash@yahoo.com

By Luvdog on Wednesday, March 07, 2001 - 09:39 pm:  Edit

I use Verizon and I can receive calls all the time no matter where I am down to Cabo. The only problem I have is being able to make calls all the time. It goes into roam now and than depending on where I am in the city. My rate is a only the Mexico charges for the call up to my allowed minutes and a flat .12 per min after that. I also have a Cell for Mexico which I just buy the cards for. I have found this to be the easiest way to deal with the phone situation in Mexico for now. Verizon advertises full Baja coverage. It was kind of lame to begin with but has gotten a little better over the past 4 months or so. I also have a place in TJ on the edge of ZN.

By The Senator on Wednesday, March 14, 2001 - 11:09 am:  Edit

Diego1,

Can you post, or send me, the address and directions to the "cold water" apartments for $120.00 a month in Colonia Rubi? How far are these places from la Zona?

Thanks,

The Senator

By WasabiMas on Wednesday, March 14, 2001 - 10:21 pm:  Edit

Senator, there is a nice studio right on the beach in my building. The rent is only 350.00, but the view is priceless. You can see the small island off the coast of Tijuana.

By Swadi on Wednesday, March 14, 2001 - 11:38 pm:  Edit

Wasabi:I am very interested...Please tell me how to view..Thanks

By Diego1 on Thursday, March 15, 2001 - 06:47 am:  Edit

Senator-

Have misplaced the old address, but will drive over this afternoon, and then post the particulars. It isn't in an apartment building as most understand it north of the line, but is an attached room on a house. But there are many like it available. More amenities, more money - less amenities, less money.

Diego

By The Senator on Thursday, March 15, 2001 - 09:18 am:  Edit

WasabiMas - Thanks, but I'm not interested in driving.

Diego1 - Thanks for checking for me. I'm looking forward to your reply.

The Senator

By WasabiMas on Thursday, March 15, 2001 - 03:11 pm:  Edit

Bro Senator, it is bro, isn't it, we could easily take the forty cent taxi's or hitch a ride with the neighbors. Oh, the third 'worldness' of it all. I miss the buss rides with the live stock flapping around in the coach.

We're re-loading, so I've had a few days to post things I've been meaning to get out there. Also, I'll be around TJ for a few weeks, to tie-up some loose ends. Look for me at a cantina near-bye.

By Cf on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 05:45 pm:  Edit

If anyone is interested, I was informed by a local that Nextel does NOT work in Playas de Tijuana.

By Reytj on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 06:59 pm:  Edit

Continuing with the phone thread

Telnor-the local phone monopoly-just recently announced a %6.5 rate hike. They claim it will be the only rate increase this year.

With Mexican mail service as it is it should come as no surprise that you can't mail in your phone bill. Nor is on line payment an option. You have to pay it in person but this can be done at supermarkets and Sanborns in addition to Telnor offices. The newest payment option involves going to a self service kiosk which is like an ATM where you enter your phone number and can pay in dollars or pesos. Phone service is billed monthly as opposed to electricity which is every two months.

By Cf on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 08:56 pm:  Edit

My electricity is every 3 months, my GF's is every month, go figure. Never, ever, ever pay a utility on the due date or the day after. The lines at the offices are VERY long. Most utilities can also be paid at the banks but must be paid several days before the due date. Any this is assuming you ever get the bill due to the bad mail service. Keep the account number and go in to pay at the office if you don't get a bill.

By WasabiMas on Sunday, March 18, 2001 - 08:36 pm:  Edit

Sprint does work from the tops of the hotels in la zona. Is it just my phone? Has anyone else had any reliable service in that area or on the hill before you get to Otay. I spoke before a Brunel film at the University in Otay. After my lecture, I noticed I had a 'voicemail messege.' I called my voicemail with no problem. Ah ... the messege ... it was one of the students in the lecture telling my to 'shut-the-fuck-up.'

Usually, from the third floor of my building, or, at the border fence on the beack-Lord knows I've had to swim around that thing before-Sprint works well. My phone has worked, without fail, from the top of the hill on the road to Las Playas.

By Reytj on Sunday, March 18, 2001 - 11:04 pm:  Edit

Wasabimas writes It works well in Otay and on 'Vampire Hill.'

Ok I'll bite. Where exactly is Vampire Hill?

BTW I can confirm that Sprint works fine in Otay. I was also at the University for a couple of days attending a conference and had no problem connecting.

By Explorer8939 on Monday, March 19, 2001 - 11:41 am:  Edit

Sprint PCS coverage in TJ is heavily dependent on atmospheric conditions. Some days it works in the ZN and Otay, and other days, zippo.

Note that you can use Pegaso roaming on your Sprint PCS phone in TJ, but it costs $$.

By Reytj on Monday, March 19, 2001 - 12:09 pm:  Edit

Explorer-Sprint may well be dependent on atmospheric conditions but those seem to change on an hourly not a daily basis. How do I know? I've never been without Sprint phone service for a whole day and I've been living in Tijuas for more than a year.

Having said this I'm not saying Sprint is the way to go. I had it before moving to TJ.

As for Nextel-CF's comment about Nextel not working in Playas doesn't seem consistent with Curious' claim that it works in all points south to Ensenada.

By WasabiMas on Monday, March 19, 2001 - 03:15 pm:  Edit

It is the hill with the graveyards on the way to Las Playas via the 'city route.' There is a good view of the helicopter base, border park, the beach, the submarine base and Ballast Point, from 'Vampire Hill.' Plus, there are a bunch of young people-that wear mostly black, in that area. Some of them have piercings. They are cool. The boys are handsome. And, the girls are pretty. They know that I'm a 'Vampire Slayer.' So, they are happy that they just look like vampires.

By Hippie on Tuesday, March 20, 2001 - 12:04 pm:  Edit

Sprint overage is very dependant on what phone you have. Coverage in the Zona was very spotty with my old Sony, but with the Samsung 8500 I now have it is pretty good.

By WasabiMas on Tuesday, March 20, 2001 - 01:41 pm:  Edit

Hippie, If I were to call you from Clayton's cafe, using Sprint, would you answer your phone and give me the lab results I ask for. Or, should I just send someone on a Lakers tour? And, what about the former 'cottage-cheese thighs?' Will liposuction help her as well? Or, should I go ahead and give her a nose job?

All these questions.

By Hippie on Tuesday, March 20, 2001 - 03:48 pm:  Edit

WasabiMas - Huh?

By Crazyazyn on Tuesday, March 20, 2001 - 04:06 pm:  Edit

So are you using the sprint nationwide long distance plan? If so, I usually hang out at plaza rio or playas. Can you please tell me if sprint works in these areas and are there any roaming charges?

By Hippie on Tuesday, March 20, 2001 - 05:05 pm:  Edit

Crazyazn - Yes, sort of, and yes. In both Plaza Rio and Playas you will be roaming with Pegaso. The only areas I have found where you are not roaming are the Zona Roja and a few really high locations. There are occasionally exceptions thast last for a few minutes or a few hours. You can buy "prepaid" roaming in blocks of 50 minutes for $10, and this will apply here as well. That, combined with the Mexico calling plan, is the cheapest way I have found to use Sprint in TJ.

By WasabiMas on Tuesday, March 20, 2001 - 05:59 pm:  Edit

Hippie, I´ve been allowed to offer cash for information about September 19-20th, 2000. Interested?

Crazyn, I´m in the Plaza Rio copy shop. I have no signal. However, I had a good signal from the TJ Hospital that is just South of here.