Chapter 6: Salvador Gets Good

ClubHombre.com: -TripReports-: Trip Report Archive: South America: Brazil: 2005 Reports: 2005/02 Hunterman - Off The Beaten Path In POA, Salvador, Natal: Chapter 6: Salvador Gets Good

By Hunterman on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 - 08:50 am:  Edit

I woke up in time to go to the buffet breakfast that was included in the price of our room. It was an excellent Baianese spread including a number of items I had never seen before, a couple of fruits and various cakes, puddings, and jellies. There were brown squares which apparently were unrefined sugar that was crystallized into a big sheet and cut into squares. There was a little red cherry looking fruit which was tasty and had three odd shaped seeds in it, plus a small green fruit that was horrible in both texture and taste. The cashew fruit was also awful, with a weird texture and an astringent, bitter taste. BeachBum2 came down just before breakfast was over, and we finished up about 10:30. Marcio had promised to fix us up with two girls at noon and so I called him to see if we were on schedule. He said he would call them and call me back in a few minutes. When he called back he said okay, they are getting ready and should be here shortly after noon.

BeachBum2 went off to the bank and I went to the “internet café” in the little shopping center across the street from the hotel. This place turned out be a pretty useless computer center. Apparently they had a dial up connection which was very slow, and various unwanted windows kept popping up in the middle of my session, making it very difficult to use Yahoo e-mail. So I looked at just two emails, closed the account, and went back to the hotel. I asked if I could use their business center for just five minutes without paying R$10, and they finally relented and said I could. I also asked the guy to check with his boss to see if I could hook my computer directly up to their Internet connection. He said he would ask.

I looked at my email account, and in the intervening 15 minutes I had gotten an e-mail from Louise in Porto Alegre. She said how nice it was that she had met me and that kind of stuff. I replied that I was just about to call her and ask if she had already forgotten about me, and it was really good to her from her. I sent off that e-mail, worked a couple of more minutes and signed off.

At that point, Marcio came into the hotel. Apparently, he was normally stationed across the street from it. He said that he had just talked to the girls and they were on their way, but they were stuck in traffic. It was 12:10. At 12:30 we had him call again and this time the one girl was still waiting for her friend to show up. The story had changed. Surprise!

BeachBum2 and I talked for a few minutes and decided that we should go about our plans without waiting for the girls. We wanted to see the Old City in Salvador and hoped the girls might accompany us, but we didn’t want to wait around. So I told Marcio to have them show up the next day at noon, and if they were there fine, if not, then we would not be interested in seeing them.

BeachBum2 suggested we be adventurous and take a bus and I said, “Sure, let's go.” We went to the bus stop by the hotel and started to study the list of bus numbers and destinations. There was a map that had the historical district on it clearly marked, and we pointed to that and tried to ask a woman standing nearby which bus to take. She had a heavy accent that neither BeachBum2 nor I could understand. But a bus started to pull up and she pointed at that bus and made a pantomime of an elevator. I think she had been trying to ask us if we wanted to go the top side or the bottom of the elevator.

We got on the bus and I kept an eye on the woman hoping for a sign as to when we should get off. The bus wound through the streets. Salvador appeared to be a very difficult city to navigate through as there were many roundabouts, and streets that changed direction from uphill to downhill, intersected at odd angles, etc.

The woman pointed at the front door of the bus and just then we saw the elevator, so we got off. Salvador has this really tall elevator to get from sea level up to the old town, which is up a steep (almost vertical) bluff. I guess it was easy to defend in the olden days when the area was settled.

Fare for the elevator was 10 centavos so of course they would not change my R$50 bill. BeachBum2 sprang for both of us, and we rode the elevator to the top. It was a breathtaking view from the enclosure around the top of the elevator. A couple of marinas, a breakwater that wrapped out and around what was apparently an old fort, a round structure that was not too big but had very thick walls. We walked out into a parking lot/plaza and were immediately accosted by vendors selling bracelets, arm bands, drinks, and probably other things that I was trying to ignore. I said to BeachBum2, “I guess we look like Gringos.” And he said, “Yeah, you are pretty white.” Alas, it was true. I had not been able to get much time in the sun so far this trip. Thank you garotas de Rio

The building straight ahead appeared to be a government building, an assembly or something. We went in a side door where there was a museum with various historical artifacts. Most of the descriptive information was in Portuguese so we found ourselves looking at items with little understanding of what they represented. In some cases, there were pictures of the men to whom they belonged but we really did not know what the significance of those people were. Still, it was interesting to look.

We walked out of that building and the next one we came to was a church. We walked into the church and again, there was an exhibit in there. The first exhibit had panels describing the history of Salvador and (I guess) related information. A room in the church had a variety of items. The room was of incredible grandeur with a coffered ceiling, perhaps 20-feet high and ornately carved trim around the edges. We walked out the other side, and there was a balcony over looking the harbor vista. The church was built into the hill and there were some stairs and pathways going down the hill. These were roped off so you could not go down, but we just stood there looking out into the distance and chatting for a while.

Next, we walked along a square and went into another historical museum, a church which was being renovated. This was the oldest church in Brazil. It had been built in the early 1500s and was definitely still in need of repair. Attached were the first hospital in Brazil and a place for homeless people to stay. This location was staffed by a number of volunteers and a friendly young woman who spoke good English, who gave the two of us a personally guided tour of the entire facility. Very friendly, these Salvadorians.

We walked around some more and at one point, we took a side street off the beaten track. Walking down the street, a girl sitting on a step said, “Sex” as we walked by. We knew what she was selling. But we tourists were not having any at that point.

In two different squares in the immediate area, there stages and lights being set up for some kind of show, but we did not have time to stay and find out about them. Throughout our visit in the Old Town, we were continually accosted by vendors selling these little ribbon type arm bands. They seemed to be giving them away, but they were really too much of a bother, so I didn’t get one and find out what the catch was.

We headed back to the hotel and decided to go to the beach. BeachBum2 had met a girl at the beach yesterday and we hoped we might have good luck again. As it turned out, on the way to the beach, BeachBum2 ran into the same girl. She was with what appeared to be her much younger sister and I was definitely not interested in the young one. So, we continued on to the beach. We walked up and down the beach for a while. We really did not see much of interest, so we settled at the end near the light house, took a table, and got some drinks. I bought some local food from a colorfully dressed woman in the Bahaian costume on the beach, it was different and tasty (if you like those tiny dried shrimp). After the sun started to set over the rocks and we were in shade, we got up and came back to the hotel.

I tried calling Elaine (not Eleanor, my mistake) again but there was no answer. BeachBum2 had set a dinner date with his girl from last night, and I asked him to ask her if she had a sexy friend.

I had gotten permission from the manager to connect to the high speed Internet, and I brought my laptop down and got on the Internet for a while. BeachBum2 came in after a few minutes and said, “I think she has got a friend and I think she is going to bring her along. I worked on the Internet for a while and then BeachBum2 said, “They’re going to be here soon.” I was finished, so I packed up the computer, went up to my room, and got ready.

A few minutes later BeachBum2 called and said they were here. I went downstairs and to my extreme delight saw a very attractive spinner walking towards me. She gave me a big hug and kiss on one cheek and then briefly on the lips, and I immediately had a good feeling about how the evening would turn out.

We sat and talked for a while. I was quite turned on by this time, as she was sitting on my lap there in the hotel lobby. Fabiana was very sexy and very sensual. She was fun loving, laughing, having a good time. The exact opposite of Monica from the night before, and every bit as sexy. But she told me she had to be home by midnight and it was already 8:30. I told her I wanted to enjoy her before we went out to dinner, and she said she was very hungry. So we compromised: we ordered an appetizer at the bar, and then went up to my room.

The sex was incredible. She was really into it. We kissed deeply for a while before I went down on her, and after a while she squirmed around into a 69 position. We went on for a long time, she was both responsive to me and very talented with her mouth. Eventually, we put on a rubber and went at it first in doggie, with her squealing as I slapped her ass, then she got on top and bounced up and down, back and forth until I couldn’t hold back any longer. We cuddled and kissed for a few minutes before getting up and getting dressed for diner.

I told her I wanted to see her again the next night, she said she’d be able to spend the night. So somehow, I forgot to take any good pictures of her—I just got a couple before we got going, which do not begin to do her justice,

Photos: Fabiana 26 27

I called BeachBum2 to find out where he was at as far as having dinner together, and he said that his girl wanted to talk to my girl. So they spoke and she hung up the phone and said we should go down to the lobby and wait for them, they would be down soon. And so we went to the lobby and waited—and waited and waited and waited.

After half an hour she called the room to find out what they were doing and there was no answer. She called again a few minutes later and a very unhappy girl picked up the phone and said they were busy and would be down eventually. At least that is what Fabiana told me. Half an hour later, they still were not down so she called again, and got an indefinite answer. Later, I found out that our call timing had been just perfect to interrupt BeachBum2 and this girl at the crucial moments, thus destroying his concentration and pleasure of the moment. Oh, well, what are friends for. After that second phone call we got the idea and headed off for dinner by ourselves.

We went to the same restaurant as the night before (Barravento), and got another seat right by the ocean. It was a wonderful evening for me. Fabiana was very good company. Even though she never did slow down her Portuguese, I was able to understand a lot of what she said. And she was affectionate. She was happy. She was friendly. It was a great evening. As we were finishing dinner, BeachBum2 called and said that his girl called and wanted to talk to Fabiana. They talked, and Fabiana said that BeachBum2's girl was coming over to meet her and they were going to go home together—it was about midnight, so it was about time. Our dinners were quite good incidentally. Fabiana had a filet of sole with shrimp and mushroom topping and I had the seafood stew that BeachBum2 had the night before. Another excellent dinner in an excellent setting, I recommend this restaurant for good Bahaian food.

BeachBum2 and his girl came over and we went out to the front of the restaurant where the girls called a cab, and asked if we would wait until their personal cab driver arrived. We stayed around for another 15 minutes until he got there, then parted company amidst much kissing and embracing.

I came back to the hotel to sleep alone again.

I woke up about 9:00 and went down to breakfast, and BeachBum2 showed up a few minutes later. We ate breakfast together and discussed our plans for the day. I called Marcio to see whether he was on track to introduce us to a few girls. He said he would call them and call me back in ten minutes. Half an hour later we were finished with breakfast and ready to move on to the activities of the day. I called Marcio again, and he said he was not sure exactly what was happening but it did not look good. I decided to go to the beach and BeachBum2 was going to hang out by the swimming pool.

The water was so inviting I could not resist going in. I went down to the beach opposite the hotel and after a few minutes plunged into the water . It was nice and warm. There was a strong current and a sign that said “Perigo” where I was swimming, which I kind of ignored until the lifeguard came over and emphasized to me the danger. I moved down the beach a couple hundred feet where there were many more people including some nice eye candy.

I went in the water a couple of times and came out to dry off and watch the people around me. This was the first time I had been out in the sun so I had to be careful, and left the beach after a short while to go back to the hotel. Actually, it was over an hour. It was just a bit too much sun for me, so I got very slightly sun burned, not enough to be a problem but enough to keep me out of the sun the next day, which was fine because I probably would not get much chance to get any sun while traveling to Natal, arriving mid afternoon.

I went into the business room, checked my e-mail and played around on the Internet for a while. I looked at some escort service web sites. BeachBum2 joined me and we contemplated calling escorts for the afternoon. I took down a few numbers and said that I wanted to go down to the restaurant that Elaine had taken us to two nights before and see whether I might find her there or someone else. BeachBum2 said he would be by the pool; call him when I saw what was happening there. I went out to buy some sun tan lotion and smeared it all over my legs, arms, and my front. I thought I would be walking only into the sun to go to the restaurant. However, the restaurant was a lot further than I thought and it was around the point and back the other way, so I ended up getting more sun on my back and a definite (if not painful) sunburn.

I finally arrived at the restaurant, across from the Hotel PraiaMar and took a seat. I think it was called Taverna something, there were three restaurants sharing a patio with tables. Looking around I noticed that there were two German guys at one table, a couple of other single guys and a number of couples. I called BeachBum2 and told him this was not the Meia Pataca of Salvador. My drink came soon and I gulped it down. I asked for the check and before the check came, three garotas came and sat down at the table next to me. One of them started talking to me. I told her I did not speak much Portuguese and asked if I could join them.

They introduced themselves. Vanessa was the blond who had initiated the conversation, Fernanda was the most attractive of the three in the middle, and Zany was on the end. She was a little bit heavy but had a very cute face. They all were well stacked. We chatted for a few minutes and, in the course of the conversation it became clear that they were available. So I called BeachBum2 and he said he would be right over, even though I told him I did not think these would be exactly his taste since he likes slimmer women and none of these garotas was slim.

BeachBum2 arrived about 15 minutes later and sure enough, he took a pass. So I was faced with the decision: which one to take. I solved the issue by taking all three. I asked how much for the three of them, Vanessa said for R$300. I offered R$200 and they accepted.

We had to go somewhere since my hotel would not allow more than one visitor at a time. I asked about the Delray Motel (a love motel mentioned on ClubHombre) and they said it was about a 15 minute drive away. We discussed other possible venues but apparently that was the best one. The others that they knew of, some of which were nearby, were not as nice. So we decided to go to the Delray Hotel. They told me I should offer the cab driver R$20 and pay no more than 30.

We hopped into the cab and took off. We drove along the coast for quite a distance and it was lovely indeed. There were stretches of rocky coastline and some long stretches of beach. Along some areas of beach we saw kiosks, and tables and umbrellas had been set out. The water was clean. The horizon was crisp. In some places the waves looked pretty inviting for surfing.

We finally arrived at the Delray Motel, a nondescript series of houses. There was a list of different size suites at the entrance. I think starting at about R$59 and going up. I chose the third one down that was R$74 but I was not sure exactly what that meant. I think it turned out to be per hour. They took a deposit of R$150 (since I had not brought my credit card with me) and off we went into the complex. There was a series of garage doors, which was all you could see. Some were closed, some were open. We pulled up to our unit and got out of the cab.

We entered the first door off the garage and came into a small triangular garden. One side was windows and the door; the windows were covered with curtains and the door lead into the suite. We went through the door and I was delighted to see a small swimming pool inside. There was a sitting area and couch next to the pool and about six stairs leading up to bed. The bedroom area was larger than the suites at termas, and off it were a bathroom with a large shower and a sauna.

Vanessa took the lead, undressing and jumping in the pool while I was still looking around. The other girls and I joined her a few minutes later, and I grabbed her from behind, spun her around, and started kissing her. Zeny came up behind me and started caressing me, rubbing her large breasts against my back. It seemed like a good time to get into bed, so I got out, pulled Vanessa into a quick shower, and we got onto the bed. Fernanda and Zeny joined us a few moments later.

They may not have been beauties, but they were total GFEs. All three of them. One, two, and three at a time. I did everything with everyone—going down on them, getting head from one, two or three at once, several different positions (I didn’t get around to asking about anal). There was no problem getting them involved with me more than one at a time (as sometimes has happened), and so there was a lot for me to do. I really got into a 69 with Zeny while somebody else did some nice things to my crotch, and finally came into her willing mouth. She swallowed!

As she went off to the bathroom, I pulled Fernanda to me, and we made out for a while. After more cuddling and stroking with all three, I came alive again, and pounded into Fernanda for a while. Then, I took Vanessa, and she bounced up and down on me, making slutty faces and tongue thrusts, and I had to come sooner than I wanted (of course, Fernanda sucking on my balls didn’t help my control).

I had just gotten out of the shower when the bell rang and a man came into the adjoining dining room with a couple of cups of coffee—two hours was up already, the time had flown. Apparently while I was in the shower, he had also gone into the suite and checked on what we had consumed, drinks, kits, and so forth. It turned out I owed an additional R$43. They also charged two times R$74 so apparently the price was apparently either per hour or they charged extra for having two extra girls, I was not sure which and I really did not have time to find out because I wanted to take some pictures.

Photos: Fernanda 28 29 30 31 32

Photos: Vanessa 34

Photos: Zeny 36 37 38

Photos: Vanessa-Zeny 39 40 41 42

Photo: Fernanda-Zeny 43

So I took a number of pictures, and then we went outside and took a few more pictures on the deserted grounds.

Photo: Vanessa-Zeny-Fernanda 44

We called a cab and it turned out to be the same cab driver, who had apparently waited around. We drove back to the hotel and the girls went on back to the restaurant where they had been. However, I told Fernanda, my favorite of the bunch, that I might be calling her later because even though I had a date (with Fabiana), you never know with these girls.

Back at the hotel, BeachBum2 said that he wanted to go to a specific restaurant which was supposed to have excellent Bahian food. I had called Fabianna from the love motel and got no answer. I called her again and her phone was off. A few minutes later she calls me to see what was happening. She told me that she could only stay until 11:30 and had to leave. I did not quite understand what her reason was but it had something to do with her family. This was not what I had in mind, so I told her I would call her back in ten minutes.

BeachBum2 and I sat by the hotel pool and discussed our options. He was not sure about his girl either. I decided I wanted Fabianna to stay all night or not at all, or I would call Fernanda. When I called her back and told her that I wanted her to stay all night and she said that for R$400 she would stay all night. So apparently (BeachBum2 and I decided), it was not really a family matter that was keeping her, but rather she wanted to go and work, and I would have to pay the extra she hoped to make to induce her to stay all night. Well, 400 was waaay too much. She was a lot of fun, but not R$400 worth of fun.

I called Fernanda and she said she could be ready by 8:00. Wonder of wonders, by ten of eight she called my room and was downstairs.

We got into her cab (which had R$10 on the meter) and took off for the restaurant. BeachBum2 asked the cab driver how far away it was and apparently it was a 15 minute drive. The cab driver told us there was another restaurant which was a better one that was owned by the same woman, whose restaurants are apparently famous for top quality Bahian food. So we headed for that one. As we got close, I recognized that we were driving down the bumpy cobblestone streets of the old town part of Salvador. I even recognized the street that we had walked past the day before, with the hooker sitting on the steps. The streets to the restaurant were blocked off. Apparently there was some kind of celebration happening, perhaps related to the sound stations that we had seen under construction the day before. The cab driver stopped, got out, and offered to guide us to the restaurant. Instead a helpful Salvadoran led us there. It was about three blocks around several corners. We walked in and the restaurant was deserted, but then again, it was only 8:30, somewhat before normal dinner time in Brazil. We took a seat by the window. There were quite a few people out in the street and moments later the sound of drums began to grow louder and louder, the joyful beat of a bateria. Apparently they were marching down an adjoining street because the music grew in volume and it became impossible to talk. We moved into a back room where the sound was only slightly less intense.

The restaurant was called Sorriso Dada, and pictures of Madam Dada with her brilliant smile were hung on the wall. She was the famous owner and cook, but was not at this restaurant tonight.

We ordered two moquecas, a stew like dish with some vegetables, one with soft shell crabs and the other with langousta. They were absolutely delicious. Along with the main dish came rice and some kind of wall paper paste-consistency grayish goo which actually tasted quite good. I have no idea what it was.

After dinner we walked out of the restaurant and headed towards the square from which we could hear music. The streets were littered with crushed plastic cups, absolutely littered. We got half a block toward the square and a drunken Salvadorian came out and tried to grab Fernanda’s arm and then mine. I have no idea what he wanted but he was a little difficult to push away. We went on to the square where a bateria was playing and a woman was singing in a restaurant alongside the square. There was a crowd gathered around and as we went through the crowd, people started accosting us to ask for money. The guy who had guided us to the restaurant was now selling CDs, and after bargaining him down I bought one which he said was music of the bateria that was playing, Swing do Pelo. It turned out to be excellent samba music, worth the R$10.

A very pregnant woman came up and to tie a red ribbon around my wrist, saying it was free. I tried to resist (nothing is free), but in vain. Then, she tried to sell me necklaces for an exorbitant price. I asked Fernanda if she would like one, which she did, and I took two for R$10 which was vastly overpaying, but it seemed the best way to get rid of a very, very persistent woman who was asking for money for the child bulging within her belly.

As we rounded the corner to the restaurant I saw Vanessa and Zany. Amazing, what a small town. We chatted for a few minutes and then the vendors started pestering us.

Two guys sitting at the table next to Vanessa and Zany were kind of eye flirting with them, and Zany asked me to talk with them, and tell them how good they were. It turned out they were from Hungary and spoke English, so I could talk with them. One of them was interested in Vanessa, the other wasn’t interested in either garota. I conveyed that and it turned out that Vanessa was not interested in them because (she said) they were ugly.

But at that point, it turned into one person after another coming up to either BeachBum2, Fernanda, or me begging for money. One guy showed us burns all over his body, and launched into a passionate pitch to Fernanda. His burns were healed, but he was still begging (I think he was saying that he couldn’t work). A gnarled, toothless old woman would not go away, she kept asking me for money. BeachBum2 and I were starting to get quite annoyed because of the non-stop begging.

BeachBum2 and I grabbed Fernanda and headed for a cab to get away from all those people who seemed to want something from us. The ride back to the hotel was uneventful.

I could hardly wait to get into bed with Fernanda. She was so affectionate during dinner and our little adventure afterward, I was completely turned on. Plus, I had really enjoyed her during the afternoon, but couldn’t really concentrate on her because the other garotas were pleasuring me at the same time. Still, we went out onto the balcony and hugged and cuddled for a few minutes before starting to kiss and caress, which we savored for quite a while for going in for our showers.

The lovemaking was that much better for the build-up. She really enjoyed giving head, and was very sensual. I let her ply her oral skills for a long time before it was my turn, and she was very vocal in her appreciation. When she had come a couple of times (I think), I asked her if she liked it in the ass, and she just took the bottle of Astro-Glide and got ready. She did indeed like it, and I was able to pound in her pretty hard for a few minutes before I exploded.

Photos: Fernanda 45 46 47 48

In the morning, Fernanda and I made love and then I packed. She came down to breakfast with me, and kept asking me to call her when I got to Natal. Hell, I could hardly understand her accent in person, there was no way I would be able to understand it on the phone, but I said I would call her. Actually, she kept calling me for the next week, until I finally had someone who spoke Portuguese better tell her nicely that I would call her when I was ready for her again.

I checked out of the hotel and took a cab to the airport. It cost about R$50 and took 30 minutes.

By Badseed on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 - 12:29 pm:  Edit

Hunterman:

Thanks for the report and pics. Let me clear up some of your confusion about Bahian customs and food:

The ribbons everyone is giving away are "Bomfim Ribbons", they all say "Lembrancas N.S. Bomfim" (Memory of Our Lady of the Good Death, Brazilians are so cheerily morbid). It's the biggest chuch in Salvador, you're supposed to tie the ribbon around your wrist and make a wish, when the ribbon falls off from age, then teh wish is granted, or you return to Salvador or somesuch. Anyway, they are pretty much like beads in New Orleans, flower lieis in Hawaii, or getting mugged in Rio, everyone does it, even the natives. Yes, they actually are free (the church gives them away), but as you found out, every vendor in town uses them as a marketing ploy to push other crap upon you.

Foodwise, the red fruit you ate were probably pitangas, dunno about the green fruit (maybe jackfruit? it's an aquired taste), and you probably ate an unripe caju, ripe ones are delicious. Anyway, general rule of thumb for brazilian fruit, everythign tastes good mixed with cachaca and made into a batida (caipirinhas, for instance, are lime batidas). So try anything new at the bar first, if you like it then eat it raw (applies for garotas too....).

The shrimp-paste things you ate are acaraje, it's Bahia's most traditional snack. It's really nothign more than a fried bean cake (usually made with ground-up black eyed peas.. same thing exists in Southern USA), with a dried shrimp pressed into the middle. The natives eat it with a LOT of hot pepper, you probably got the gringo version, otherwise youwould have rememebered the fire :-)

Northeast brzil has hundreds of different moquecas, one of my favorites is siri mole (the soft shell crab you ate). The glue-like stuff is "pirao", simply manioc meal and water. Fancy piraos are made with fish or shrimp stock and are a perfect, although unlikely, accompniment to brazilian seafood. But yes, if you let it dry out a bit, it pretty much turns into glue, don't get the stuff in your hair or beard.

Lastly, as you found out, Salvador has some kind of street party every day of the year. They say the city has 365 churches, one for each day (actually it has 400-some), so naturally, each parish has it's feast day, which means plenty of beer (hence the plastic cups in the street), an axe band on top of a sound truck, and a bunch of cute baianas shaking their asses. Oh, somewhere in the confusion their might be a priest and some old ladies carrying around a statue of a saint... ;-)

BS


By Hunterman on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 - 05:18 pm:  Edit

Uh-oh, I took the ribbon off myself after about five days. But nobody told me about the wish. And anyway, one of the wishes I made when I put the flowers in the ocean New Year's Eve didn't come true. So I'm not sure I'm a believer.

Thanks for the information, you are a wonderful source. I'd love to hang out in Brasil with you sometime.

I had acaraje again on Pao de Acucar, a Bahaian woman (in full dress) was there, posing for photos and cooking. I forgot to mention the sweets: at first I thought it was a chocolate chip cookie, it looked like one, but turned out to be peanuts embedded in crystallized raw (brown) sugar. There was also a coconut-embedded-in-sugar candy, both were quite tasty.

I loved the siri mole, and one of my favorite restaurants in Rio is Siri Mole e Cia, I've eaten there a number of times.

But that last night in Salvador, being seriously bothered by all the vendors and drunks, made me have second thoughts about my plans to go to Carnaval in Salvador one of these years. I don't know what the set-up is there, but I don't call that treatment partying. If that's how the Salvadorans treat gringos when they're partying (drinking), I'm steering clear.


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