Traveling to Guatemala
US Citizens need a valid US passport for stays of 90 days or less. The State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/guatemala.html) recommends that the passport or a photocopy of it be carried at all times while in Guatemala. I did not take this advice, but at least carrying the photocopy is probably a good idea.
There is no entry fee, but there is a $30US exit fee which is normally included in the cost of the airline ticket. It would be a good idea to have this available just in case. There is also a small airport security fee of $2 US which is NOT included in the ticket price.
The cost for my ticket was $288.50 on an American Airlines NetSaver Weekend special fare from Miami. These fares allow a maximum stay of one week if you go from Wednesday to Wednesday.
Guatemala's time zone is GMT/UTC-6, the same as US Central Time. Electricity is 120V/60Hz, so you won't need any convertors or adaptors for your electrical appliances.
Rainy season runs from May to October. Dry season runs late October through the end of April. High tourist season goes from the end of December until the early April, with the busiest times during the holidays. Summer months of June and August may also be busy with tourists visiting to study Spanish.
Money/Banks/ATMs
The main currency used in Guatamala is called the quetzal and is named after the national bird. It is pronounced "ket-SAL" or "ket-SAL-es" (plural). A quetzal may be divided into 100 centavos, but they are relatively worthless and you probably will not see these often. The exchange rate during my March 2004 trip and at the time of this writing is an approximate 8 quetzales for 1 US dollar. My preferred currency converter is the one at XE.com (http://www.xe.com/ucc/full.shtml) if you want to calculate the current rate.
You can get a fair to good rate at the currency booth at the airport when you arrive. I recommend exchanging enough for your first day at least, maybe several if you arrive on the weekend. Many places will accept US dollars at a fair or lower rate if you do not have quetzales.
The only places I found to exchange significant amounts of money in the city were at banks, and that was always a slow and time-consuming process due to an unusually high amount of paperwork and record-keeping. Some hotels would exchange quetzales for dollars more painlessly, but they usually didn't carry enough cash to be a dependable source.
ATMs are located in most banks and in some hotels. According to the Lonely Planet printed guide, the majority are on the Visa/Plus system and can ONLY accept PIN #'s that are four digits long. Be sure your debit card and code meets these restrictions if you plan on using it. I did not see a lot of ATMs around, and the ones I did find did not always work. The only reliable place I found was in Zone 10 where there were two right next to each other in a mini-mall one block north of the Holiday Inn. The exact location is the north side of Calle 12 between Avenida 1 and Avenida 2. I attempted to use ATMs at the Cafesa (Guatemala's Dennys') on Avenida 6 in Zone 9 and in front of the mall on Avenida 6 in Zone 1, but was unsuccessful both times.
According to Lonely Planet, a tip of 10% in restaurants is customary. I did not finy any information regarding tipping taxi drivers and they didn't seem to expect a tip, which is a good thing given the expensive prices they quoted.
Crime and Safety
I personally did not experience nor witness any incidents of crime. People on the street seemed friendly and polite, and I didn't notice any shady looking characters with the exception of some transvestites I saw late at night in Zone 9. Outside of the main commerical areas in Zone 1 and Zone 10, the streets were mostly quiet (desolate) after dark. I did plenty of walking through the deserted streets of Zone 9 during these hours, despite the admonishments of a couple lovely ladies.
My personal successful trip aside, I recommend against taking the crime situation in Guatemala City lightly. I saw more heavily armed security guards in Guatemala City than in Panama, Costa Rica, the Dominican Republic, and Argentina combined. Firearms appear easily obtainable, as I saw several gun shops throughout the city, including one in a busy mall. While the State Department website lists an impressive array of crimes that might occur, some consider these warnings as overly emphasized and exaggerated, especially for experienced travelers. However, it should be noted that the topic of violent crime gets a prominent mention in Guatemala's introduction on Lonely Planet (http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/central_america/guatemala/), much more so than any of the other countries listed earlier in this paragraph.
One special warning that is somewhat unique is to be VERY careful about taking pictures of children. Stories and rumors of child abductions are supposedly common and may cause locals to freak out if they see you photographing children without permission.
Another thing I should mention is that the State Department site and several locals warned against hailing taxis from the street. Safety advice that is repeated by locals you meet is often advice one should follow. I did not follow this advice but I would likely do so if I returned.
One should not be overly concerned with the crime situation in Guatemala City to be discouraged from visiting, as a vast majority of travelers to Guatemala City experience enjoyable and successful trips. Being aware of the potential dangers should limit risky behaviour and help to minimize the risk of exposure crime.
City Layout
Guatemala City is divided into somewhat randomly numbered zones. The most prominent street is Avenida La Reforma which runs north and south starting near the north end of Zones 13/14 and dividing Zone 9 and Zone 10. Zone 4 lies north of Calle 1 in Zone 9. Zone 1 is a large area north of Zone 4. Most travelers will stick to these Zones.
The address system is very intuitive and easy to understand. Calles run east/west and Avenidas run north/south. Street addresses contain a hypenated number that identifies its location relative to cross streets. On Avenidas, an even number is the West side and an odd number is the East side. On Calles, even is South and odd is North. For example, the address for Caprichos is 13-69 Avenida 5 in Zone 9. That means the bar is located on the East side of Avenida 5 between Calle 13 and Calle 14(think of it as 13.69, which is between 13 and 14).
Unfortunately, the city planners had to make sure it wasn't too easy for travelers, Zone 4 consists of a crisscross of streets running at a 45 degree angle to the northbound Avenidas. I'm sure there is some logic to the addressing in this Zone, but rather than researching and going into that explanation it's probably best just to consult the Guatamala City Hobbyist Map. Le Club in Zone 4 is a must-visit if you are hobbying in Guatemala City. Make sure you download and print a copy of the map before you go.
Zone 10 is the nicest part of the city with the best hotels and restaurants. I was repeated told this was the only really safe area to walk around. The accomodations are more expensive, but I definitely recommend staying in this area. Two of the most popular museums are located here down a very steep hill at the far east end of Calle 6. Walking up this hill is not fun.
Zone 9 is where most hobbyists will likely be spending their evenings. Most of the clubs are in this Zone, which is within walking distance west of Zone 10. Safety here is more questionable. You should be safe inside the clubs, but I do not recommend walking around here at night.
Zone 4 feels less secure than Zone 9, but is a must visit for Le Club, one of the best all-around hobbyist clubs in Guatemala City.
Zone 1 is the city's downtown area. Here you'll find the most tourist sites, street vendors, and retail shops, plus many more hotels, restaurants, and banks. Most of the non-hobbying travelers will be found in this part of the city.
Transportation
I created separate topics for the Taxis and the Bus System in Guatamala City. Click on the link for a more thorough on them or to create a new topic on rental cars or other modes of transport that I didn't explore.
Taxis are relatively expensive. A ride to the airport to your hotel will cost about $5US if you are in Zone 9 or 10 or $7US if you are in Zone 1. Short runs will likely cost you $3US for short runs or $8 for longer runs (like Zone 10 to Zone 1). By contrast, a bus ride from Zone 10 to Zone 1 is .15US (.25US at night).
Taxis can be found in front of hotels and bars or hailed from the street. Hailing taxis is supposedly more dangerous according to websites and locals I spoke with, but I didn't have any problems. Many taxi drivers may give your their phone number hoping for repeat business. The Lonely Planet printed guide recommends Taxi Amarilla, dispatched taxis that are metered, meaning greater safety and less expensive. The phone number given is 332-1515.
Buses are inexpensive but there is the risk of pickpocketing, plus they can get crowded and uncomfortable and definitely take longer to get to your destination. There are bus stops, but the buses can and do stop anywhere to drop off or pick up passengers. If you are reading this and plan on bus travel, you will most likely be catching northbound 82 or 101 on the east side of Avenida La Reforma until it merges with Avenida 7 to visit the clubs in Zone 4, or until it reaches Zone 1 for sightseeing and shopping. Avenida 7 is northbound only, to return south you'll have to make it over to Avenida 6 southbound.
If you plan on visiting Antiqua, some tour operators or hotels may offer shuttle services that are included in their prices. Otherwise you can catch an inexpensive bus at the terminal near Avenida 4 and Calle 19 in Zone 1.
Accomodations
I stayed at three hotels and visited two others. For addresses amd more thorough discussion of the hotels or to add reviews on other hotels, visit the Listing of Hotels for Guatemala City. I paid approximately $57US at Suites Reforma, $62US at Ramada Conquistador, and $80US at Holiday Inn. My order of preference was Holiday Inn, Suites Reforma, Ramada Conquistador. The difference between Holiday Inn and Suites Reforma for me was an extra $23/day for an electronic safe, free Internet access, and a free ride to the airport. Holiday Inn supposedly charges a $10 guest fee if you bring back a lady, but I didn't test this. I have no idea about guest friendliness for the other two. According to other sources, most of the nicer hotels are NOT guest friendly or require some persistance or timing.
Chalet Suizo is guest-friendly and inexpensive at $20US/night but it's in Zone 1 and they have very plain and basic rooms with no safes. It's a very popular hotel for backpacker types.
Las Torres has a mixed reports on guest-friedliness but has much nicer rooms than Chalet Suize and is in Zone 10 for $39US. Las Torres also lacks in-room safes.
Hobbying Details
Most of my notes are posted in the Listing of Clubs in Guatemala City. Visit the link for addresses, photos, and discussion. Below are some brief summaries on the ladies and establishments and my club recommendation list.
I met a variety of ladies from Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, and Russia. In terms of looks, I tended to prefer the Hondurans, although the most attractive lady I spend time with was local. The Russians were relatively attractive, but seemed to be the least friendly of the bunch. As far as I know, I only saw Russians at Caprichos.
From my personal experience, I cannot highly recommend Guatemala City as a hobbyist destination, but I have read of others that had better experiences than I did. On a positive note, the number of options in terms of clubs and casas is higher than other destinations I have visited, such as Argentina, Costa Rica, Panama, and the Dominican Republic. Unfortunatley, I found the ladies to be less passionate on average than any of the other destinations. On a surprising note, I also found the quality of blowjobs to be much lower than any of the other named countries. Only one BJ was bareback, but too short. In several instances, I didn't receive one at all.
Many clubs appear like your standard nightclub with neon signs in front, but a fair amount are in unmarked buildings. Casas are residential homes that operate as private brothels. I only visited one (Casa Marujas) but supposedly there are many.
All clubs had security at the entrance that would give a thorough patdown before allowing entry. Most of them did not find my small camera, several that did allowed me to keep it, but Platinum wanted me to leave it with security with a ticket number before allowing me to enter. I was able to get it in later by placing it in a different pocket, but my camera is smaller than most (Casio Exislim) and this would not work for most people.
To the best of my knowledge, all clubs offered all-night take out options and most offered on-site service. I did not partake in any all-night service, so I cannot comment much on them, but AFAIK prices start at around $150US and can rise rather dramatically. I did not keep much of an accounting of prices, but average sessions seemed to be around 400Q, or about $50 US and average lady drinks were around 50Q or $6US. Session fees are paid beforehand directly to the establishment. Most of the ladies I was with expected a tip, I do not know what a standard tip should be (if any) but gave 80Q-100Q at times.
Here is a linked listing of clubs/casas I became familiar with in order of personal preference from best to worst. The most important factors in my ranking are, in order; the quality of looks of ladies, the quantity of attractive ladies, overall prices, and overall atmosphere. There are a few more in the full listing above, but I didn't include them here if I did not go inside. Here they are:
Le Club Z4 - Best multi-lady shows, quantity/quality
Caprichos Z9 - High quantity/quality, only place with Russians
Moulin Rouge Z9 - Preferred locals club, medium quantity but good quality
Platinum Z9 - Great shows and original acts but expensive lady drinks
Paradise Z9 - Best lighting, easy to see ladies
Cats Z9 - Nice VIP area and pool area but very dark
Mens' Club Z9 - Crowded locals club with lots of inexpensive action
Queens Z10 - A bit shabby looking interior
Extasis Z9 - Decent talent and nice setup for small place
Samba Z9 - Overpriced! (700Q/$88US ST), but nice selection and only club open Sun
Casa Marujas Z13 - Great reputation, but personally unimpressed
Garotas Z9 - Nice small place, but so-so talent and low quantity
Oro Solido Z4 - Mainly overpriced strip club/unsure of takeout options
International Flamingo Z4 - Mainly strip club/unsure of takeout options
Casablanca Z9 - Low quality/quantity talent
Club Venus Z9 - Low quality/quantity talent
Elite Z10 - Overpriced strip club
Most clubs are open Monday through Saturday from approximately 6pm until 3am. A few advertise as open earlier(Casablanca, Club Venus, possibly others), but the ones I checked had little talent at these hours. Others close the doors and shut off the exterior lights, but stay open past 3am(Platinum, Garotas, possibly others). Samba was the only club I found open on Sundays. A couple waiters at different clubs and a couple taxi drivers mentioned to me that I could knock on the doors of most of these places when they were closed and they might let me in if any of the ladies wanted to work since most lived on-site. I never tried this myself, but I saw a couple gentlemen that appeared to be doing this during the afternoon.
Escorts can be found in under "Varios" in the classified section of Prensa Libre, an independant news publication. You can access an online version of this section directly at http://www.prensalibre.com/clasi/list.jsp?sub=14&anuncio=24. The escorts are listed as "Masaje". I am unaware of the quality of looks or service of the ladies in these ads, but I assume there is a wide variety. Logically, service might be better as they likely have less mileage and may rely more on repeat clientele. For more discussion on escorts, visit the section for Escorts in Guatemala City.
Other Touristy Stuff
Museums are located throughout the city. Two of the most important museums are located in Zone 10 at the the far east end of Calle 6 at the bottom of the hill. They are named Museo Ixchel del Traje Indigena and Museo Popul Vuh. There are the only two I visited, but I found them interesting. There are several more located in both Zone 13 and Zone 1.
The Zoologicio La Aurora Zoo is located in Parque Aurora in Zone 13 north of the museums.
The Plaza Mayor is located in Zone 1 and is bordered by the Palacio Nacional and Catedral Metropolitana. The Mercado Central is located a block to the east. Tons of street vendors can be found all around Zone 1 for arts, crafts, and other goods.
A huge relief map of Guatemala can be found in Parque Minerva in Zone 2, north of Zone 1.
Antigua is a popular town to visit and only about an hour by bus, however there is supposedly only one hobbying club on the outskirts of the town. I didn't visit to see if it was worthwhile, but I doubt it.
Of course, a lot more can be said about the standard fare of sights and activities in Guatemala City, but I'm sure that's best left to other guides. I recommend the Lonely Planet guide to Belize, Guatemala and Yucatan listed at $19.99. You can probably find it for less.
Brief Conclusion
I am interested in returning to Guatemala City, but more for standard tourist reasons than for hobbying. While the options are abundant and easy to find, I've had better sessions in other parts of Central America, the Caribbean, and South America.
Inexperienced travelers may be put off by the high number of shotgun armed security guards which can be found in many stores. The crime reputation for Guatemala may also be unsettling for those that do their research or speak with locals. More experienced travelers will probably find Guatamala City no dangerous than other countries or parts of the US.
One of the best reasons to visit Guatemala may be to study Spanish at one of the language schools. Antigua is a popular town to do this. Personally I would prefer to study Spanish in Costa Rica.
If you decide to visit Guatemala City, I hope this guide will be of assistance. Have a good time and please post any corrections or additions for inclusion into a future update of this guide.
